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You first need to determine which clutch/fan you have. I am not sure what year they shifted fan/clutch models, but I don’t believe the old model has a rebuild kit available. you can either use your fingers, or an inspection mirror. Old model: The fan is attached to the clutch/hub with Allen...

Yep stock goodyear MVTs@55PSI, no weight on the back either(cab and chassis). This was basically offroad on my property thru snowbanks from my own snowplowing. 12-16” average depth and 30” snowbanks it went thru like they weren't even there. Havnt done any snowy highway with it yet

Mine drives thru 30” banks like they aren't even there:)

Ok, forgot if this is an A0 or A1, but the fording sw, solenoid and fan control work the same. With the fording sw in the on/fan disengged position, when you turn on the ignition sw you should have 24v at the fan solenoid valve connector(power on = fan off). If you plug in the solenoid to that...

Not on the fairlead, on the snatch block that turns the line pull around to the front fairlead. It makes it a 2:1 pull, so that anchor point will see 40k when you pull 20K on the front+ the 20k on the winch. Many of the Foers setups use a custom snatch block that nests in the rear fairlead, so...

20k sherpa. They make a 25k now…

Google “foers winch”…

Yep, the turnaround structure and how it interfaces with the frame needs to be considered very carefully as that point will see the greatest force. The rear roller feed and support structure on the LMTV will not support this without some more support structure added.

ok, you shouldn’t hear any air release until you turn OFF the main switch. The wet tank needs to be over 85PSI or you won’t get any air to the solenoid. Unless you are using the brakes the pri/sec tanks can set at 120 all day long with the wet tank empty. Without a gauge, the only way to know...

Yea I would not necessarily use the land of milspec as an example to follow… the 4 battery bank paired with a 100A alternator on the LMTV is a good example:)

Yep, rollers must be smooth. Any nicks or abrasions will act like blades as the tensioned line is rolled over them…

I wasn’t planning on using any:) You don’t typically use them with synthetics, you use a simple fairlead with a rounded edge. The only place I am looking at a roller is fairly close to the winch where I re-direct the line from perpendicular to the winch spool, to parallel with the frame. This...

Yea 12mm Synthetic is rated over 30k break strength, just fine for a 20k winch. And for all the reasons mentioned above, it is a good mix IMO for a rec application. As for a Foers winch install, you can order a bare winch then make up a line that encompasses the added length. Or get one...

I should add, The mounting scheme for the sherpa actually takes into account its capability to deliver so much force. To reduce shear strain on the bolts, it can be configured for a “downward” pull towards the main hardware. So it doesn't really matter if it spools off the top or the bottom...

Yes I was looking at the Sherpa. Mounted gearbox in, to get it as close to the frame as possible. Then it will be angled toward the rear so the spool points at an intermediary fairlead that will get the rope right in alongside the frame for its run to the rear. Then around a snatchblock which...

Yea and sometimes stuff just happens:) I can also say I have probably used a winch to pull someone else as often as I have used it to pull my own vehicle…

Yea but can you do this with the front buried in a ditch and the pouring rain? Because in my experience, that is when you will need it on the other end of the truck… Because of the weights and structure involved with a 20K winch, that was why I am looking at making a Foers config work. With a...

Yea, it is just I have had to schlep receiver mounted winches thru all kinds of crap to get them where I need to pull from, and yes, even dig out the receiver to even get the winch into the receptical. I was seeking to avoid that, with a winch and mount plate capable of moving 20K worth of...

Yea a Foers vector winch setup was what I was considering, with the electric winch mounted where the hydraulic winch would go. there are already cable passages fore/aft on that side of the chassis, and I don’t see a big problem with fabricating a mount that could withstand 20K of pull. The oem...

I keep coming back to putting mine where the hydraulic would go or in behind the battery box, rigged for a front or rear pull. Much shorter power runs that way…