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Yea the ones in the forward lift structure are kinda tight and surrounded by structure. I may have to work the disc up from the bottom and cur two at a time as there isn’t room to get to just one at a time… and of course some knucklehead did one set with the hucks on the inside of the frame...

Nice, Very nice!

And what happens if you try a turn signal or hazard flash application with the flasher unplugged? I would guess nothing will happen, and yes, I would say the flasher is bad… The standard mil flashers don’t seem to be all that robust. I replaced mine with a commercially available 3 wire solid...

Not yet, had to finish a house before I could get working on this…

You will probably have to remove the manifold from the block to tighten any fittings on it…

The yellow thing you circled is an oil distribution manifold. The black thing towards the bottom of the pic is the 15PSI oil pressure switch, and the bottom edge of the oil pressure gauge sender is just visible pointing up behind the power steering pump. Nice pic of the green air compressor...

98… You have to cut right thru where hex and collar meet(shave the top of the hex head) to bypass all the thread in the collar… I was expecting to have to unleash an air impact on the nut after I cut the collar, so them falling apart was a pleasant surprise… Will probably cut a few more today:)

Actually I just discovered it is not a nut with a locking collar… Removed 3 in just a few minutes with a angle grinder and a cutoff wheel. As soon as I cut thru the shank they went “Tink” and literally fell off… Like Olly said cut all the way thru the shank right where the hex head meets the...

Well that's the whole point, once the collar is out of the way its just a nut. The trick is doing it cleanly without damaging the threads. a cutoff should be able to give a clean cut threads and all that will allow the nut to unscrew. A plasma sure isnt going to do that…. Those hydraulic...

Well next time you get bit, stay in that spot, and hand the stinger to someone else and let them burn a little. I doubt you will get a shock… old dirty glove damp with sweat? What kind of welder, any high freq? This DC or AC stick?

What truck? The A0 and A1 schematics are in the pubs section at the top of the main forum page under present conflict vehicles. The A0 are in the back of each manual found there, the A1 is just a schematic by itself, no manual…

If I was cutting it like that, I would cut both the collar and bolt/threads off clean. Will start with that using a cutoff wheel… I have a cut-50 and it is only good for about 3/8”… If I try it I might try cutting parallel with the bolt thru the nut and collar on opposite sides, then knock...

More likely fan solenoid Or control. Do you hear a whoosh of air from the passenger dash area when you turn off the main switch? The fan control solenoid is under the far right end of the passenger dash. It is right above eye level when standing beside the truck in the passenger door, with...

Well you were getting bit because you were holding half of the welding circuit in your hand and completing a circuit to ground with your hand on the stinger and some other part of your body to ground…. Wet sweaty hand on dirty damp stinger and sweaty skin on the frame… ever been shocked while...

All three of those are 2way check valves. They allow control of the brake systems by either the truck controls or the front gladhand. The bottom two are for front and rear service brakes and connect to pedal and blue service glad hand then back to those brake systems. The top one is for...

I have welded on lots of stuff over the years and never damaged any installed electronics. I associate with quite a few people who do the same thing and have never heard of anyone damaging any electronic component. Thats my experience anyway… As mentioned, my ground is always where I am...

Well like I said above, if you have air in the tanks, and you turn on the main switch, you should be able to rotate the fan freely. This is a good thing to do from time to time anyway, spin it and wiggle it around, see how much slop and drag the bearings have since those bearings are...

If you reach up under the radiator before you turn the truck on, the fan should be locked. When you turn on the main switch, with air in the tanks, the fan should release/freewheel. The thermal switch removes power to the fan solenoid which removes air to engage the fan at 205F. You should...

Most pickups I have ever messed with have them in some form…

It was probably just getting to proper temp by that point:) Did you get it warm enough for the fan to engage? Does this rig have a warmup switch(Engages ex brake to load engine)? Diesels like load, you can also chock the wheels and put it in drive to get it to full op temp/engage the fan…