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Huck bolt removal tool

Guruman

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So, I'm beginning work on mounting my winch, wondering how to deal with the Huck bolts, when I come across this tool:

Huck collar cutter

It looks like the thing is just a glorified nut splitter for several thousand dollars.

I'm wondering if. Could cut the collars with one of these much less expensive 10ton nut splitters:


1654783548955.png

https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Splitter-Breaker-Separator-m16-m24/dp/B09YM8L294

Anyone have experience with removing the Huck bolts by this method ? Seems like it might be easier/safer/faster/cleaner than grinding or torching them off.
 

Mullaney

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So, I'm beginning work on mounting my winch, wondering how to deal with the Huck bolts, when I come across this tool:

Huck collar cutter

It looks like the thing is just a glorified nut splitter for several thousand dollars.

I'm wondering if. Could cut the collars with one of these much less expensive 10ton nut splitters:


View attachment 869961

https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-Splitter-Breaker-Separator-m16-m24/dp/B09YM8L294

Anyone have experience with removing the Huck bolts by this method ? Seems like it might be easier/safer/faster/cleaner than grinding or torching them off.
.
Interesting. I too am interested to see what folks have to say. When I found the Huck Bolt tool - and the manual labor expended - I decided that a grinding wheel was my solution. The only nut splitter I found was a two step process because the Huck bolts are too "tall" to cut in one "split".
 

chucky

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I ve got one of those for cable clamp dies that works great but i cant imagine it being able to get flat with the frame to get square on the huck i think a flameing hacksaw would be more the ticket or a flat thin 4 1/2 in grinder to go straight in and grind a straight line thru the end of the bolt to split the nut maybee!
 

chucky

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If you find yourself needing to cut a fair amount of steel look into the (Cut 50 ) inverter plazma cutter on amazon i bought one 4 yrs back and have cut a mile off stuff thick and thin i think u can pick one up for 250 and go ahead and get a box of consumables for the cutting head tip cup and heat shield .!amazon.com/CUT-50-Inverter-Voltage-Cutting-Machine/dp/B07D9V9JZ7
 

wheelspinner

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I ve got one of those for cable clamp dies that works great but i cant imagine it being able to get flat with the frame to get square on the huck i think a flameing hacksaw would be more the ticket or a flat thin 4 1/2 in grinder to go straight in and grind a straight line thru the end of the bolt to split the nut maybee!
You only have to crack the collar. The nut will come right off then.
 

Guruman

Not so new member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
You only have to crack the collar. The nut will come right off then.
Can you define what you mean by the "collar"? The round section past the hex near the frame or the hex itself?

If it's the round section, I can't imaging this hydraulic cutter taking more than 60 seconds to split it (unless it's too tough for 10 tons). Even if you had to cut twice, that's be quick, quiet, and mess free work of it.
 

Guruman

Not so new member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
If you find yourself needing to cut a fair amount of steel look into the (Cut 50 ) inverter plazma cutter on amazon i bought one 4 yrs back and have cut a mile off stuff thick and thin i think u can pick one up for 250 and go ahead and get a box of consumables for the cutting head tip cup and heat shield .!amazon.com/CUT-50-Inverter-Voltage-Cutting-Machine/dp/B07D9V9JZ7
This might just be the way. I've been wanting to get a plasma cutter anyway. Figure in the money I'd spend on the hydraulic tool , and this gets more attractive. Plus it's useful for other things.

Edit: I'm seeing $435 on Amazon right now. Still might be worth it.

Edit my edit: I see that one is "wide voltage" there's a 115/230 unit for $279
 

coachgeo

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Cutting torch 30 seconds each one.
I found this not to good for many of them.... especially near the axles.... too many brake lines in area... sparks / melting metal drips tend to damages things

fastest for me was slicing off section(s) with a "Demolition " type Sawzall blade and or cut off wheel, followed by deep socket on a torque wrench and a closed or open end wrench for the opposite side.
 

wheelspinner

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Can you define what you mean by the "collar"? The round section past the hex near the frame or the hex itself?

If it's the round section, I can't imaging this hydraulic cutter taking more than 60 seconds to split it (unless it's too tough for 10 tons). Even if you had to cut twice, that's be quick, quiet, and mess free work of it.
Yes. And it works quickly and efficiently-however it’s bulky and just doesn’t fit well in some places.
 

Guruman

Not so new member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Well, I went with what I had as a test. I had some carbide saw blades for my oscillating saw. It cut through the collar like a hot damn all the way to the "bolt". But, even after 20 minutes of hammering, chilling and cussing, it still did not come out.
 

Ronmar

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Well, I went with what I had as a test. I had some carbide saw blades for my oscillating saw. It cut through the collar like a hot damn all the way to the "bolt". But, even after 20 minutes of hammering, chilling and cussing, it still did not come out.
If I was cutting it like that, I would cut both the collar and bolt/threads off clean. Will start with that using a cutoff wheel…

I have a cut-50 and it is only good for about 3/8”… If I try it I might try cutting parallel with the bolt thru the nut and collar on opposite sides, then knock them off with a hammer or air chisel. Or on the bolt head, gouge a hole straight down thru the head towards the shank then bust the head off…
 

Guruman

Not so new member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
If I was cutting it like that, I would cut both the collar and bolt/threads off clean. Will start with that using a cutoff wheel…

I have a cut-50 and it is only good for about 3/8”… If I try it I might try cutting parallel with the bolt thru the nut and collar on opposite sides, then knock them off with a hammer or air chisel. Or on the bolt head, gouge a hole straight down thru the head towards the shank then bust the head off…
Yeah, that carbide bit cuts the collar like a hot damn, but the bolt... not at all.
 

coachgeo

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... cutting parallel with the bolt thru the nut and collar on opposite sides, then knock them off with a hammer or air chisel. Or on the bolt head, gouge a hole straight down thru the head towards the shank then bust the head off…
found it faster to just cut one side of collar parallel like you suggest but NOT cut into the nut's sides. Sometimes cut it this collar section off; sometimes broke if off with chisel. ... At times had to do this with two sides of collar... anyway this relieved the grip of the collar portion and allowed the thing to unbolt.
 

Ronmar

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found it faster to just cut one side of collar parallel like you suggest but NOT cut into the nut's sides. Sometimes cut it this collar section off; sometimes broke if off with chisel. ... At times had to do this with two sides of collar... anyway this relieved the grip of the collar portion and allowed the thing to unbolt.
Well that's the whole point, once the collar is out of the way its just a nut. The trick is doing it cleanly without damaging the threads. a cutoff should be able to give a clean cut threads and all that will allow the nut to unscrew.

A plasma sure isnt going to do that….

Those hydraulic ones that grip the protruding threads and split and separate the collar on opposite sides sure are cool:)
 

olly hondro

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found it faster to just cut one side of collar parallel like you suggest but NOT cut into the nut's sides. Sometimes cut it this collar section off; sometimes broke if off with chisel. ... At times had to do this with two sides of collar... anyway this relieved the grip of the collar portion and allowed the thing to unbolt.
Yes, right where the smooth round collar meets the nut face. Just like cutting off a normal bolt. You only have to cut 3/4 of the way through, then a sharp strike with a hammer will break it off. Then you can push the bolt out with your finger easily. I used a 10-dollar HF die grinder with cutoff wheels. I can get 3 bolts cut per wheel. So get extras.
 

Ronmar

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Port angeles wa
Actually I just discovered it is not a nut with a locking collar… Removed 3 in just a few minutes with a angle grinder and a cutoff wheel. As soon as I cut thru the shank they went “Tink” and literally fell off… Like Olly said cut all the way thru the shank right where the hex head meets the lock collar…

 

coachgeo

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Actually I just discovered it is not a nut with a locking collar… Removed 3 in just a few minutes with a angle grinder and a cutoff wheel. As soon as I cut thru the shank they went “Tink” and literally fell off… Like Olly said cut all the way thru the shank right where the hex head meets the lock collar…

what year truck; I forget? Wonder if they changed Huck bolt type? thru the years? I'll go out and look at my old ones. They sure as hell would not fall off when cut that way for me.... but granted ones I cut where on a truck that saw a lot of salt so that may be why
 
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