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You also havebto take the spring i think out if the distribution valve on the ip and remove the stop solenoid so the speed lever can be held in the up position. Its all in the manual.

A breaker bar and a 5/8 socket on the blower wheel. You just take the fuel line off going to #1 injector. Reconnect it to the pump with the line aiming down so you ca catch the fuel in a bucket or something. Turn the switch to prime run so the pumps are on. Crank the blower wheel aroud until the...

Really its the original pump and nothing has changed so timing should be right. All your doing is a check to make sure its all right.

Rob in the manual method 2 is the flow timing and should be listed right after method 1. Atleast it is in the 003 manual. The flow timing is really easy. Look in the manual. If its not in there let me know and i can post it up out of the 003 manual. Your timing pointer does need to be set pretty...

Ok walt once you do jerry's test its time to pull the pump and see what you got. I was a little hesitant to do mine as well but i got it off and the whole thing was pretty simple. No too many parts and no o-rings or anything like that that you need to worry about. Just pull apart. You will see...

Did you check the filters in the pumps? Bottom of each pump there is a hex head. Put a wrench on it and take the bottom cap off to remove the screen. These would be your first obstruction. From there you got your main fuel filters then the ip. Between your filters and the ip there is a check...

now thats a great attitude to have! not too often you find a young kid with an attitude like that. keep that mode of thinking and you'll go far.

thats great you got some use out of it. i was hoping the power would go out here...ahhh no such luck!!

thanks jim! thats a good link hndrson. all this talk about these things and i might pick one or two up. one to keep original and the other to paint it up all crazy.

i know this is a bit out of scope from the op and doesnt apply to diesel but... 3jim, i think the problem comes into play where you have older tanks made by these companies years ago that could get away with using regular general purpose poly resin either to cut cost or didnt know any better...

Fiberglass is fuel resistant long term. They make fuel tanks out of it. The only issue in this case is polyester resin doesnt bond well to metal. I could aways peel a piece of glass off of metal fairly easily. if you did the repair, grinded the metal with 36grit then did the glass work with...

If it has Lot of holes then the bottom is pretty much shot. Would prob be easier and better to just weld a new bottom on. For a fuel tank you need to have clean and pure welds oherwise youll have pinholes in the weld that will leak. Flux core isnt really gonna do it. If you have gas for your mig...

I certainly dont know but i would imagine the trailer and gen are the only things worth anything. The rest of it i cant see any use for other than scrap.

Lol tell her thats to do the laundry in when the power goes out. You can do the laundry for the neighborhood during outages and charge per load. Tell her its a money maker

Haha jerry!! Therr were 2 of them there. I had both in my watch list. Thats great you got one

thats interesting you have rubber flaps under the control panel for throttle control and slave. havent seen that before btw, every mep-003a i have seen, which is what you have there, was manufactured by libby welding corp. most common manufacture date range from 1982 to 1992. im sure there are...

Yeah i had a few bids out there on some 003 but i gave up when the prices went through the roof.

Well its not necessary but if it were me i would. On a new tank its quick and easy. Just acid etch it, make sure its dry then do the liner.

no your fine. that process i posted was for metal tanks.

thats all i use jim. novalac epoxy is the only thing i will use in my tanks. all that other over the counter junk is just that.....junk.