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You can't go wrong getting the stanadyne fm100 filter kits from gimpyrob.
You should be able to get a fuel cap from someone here. Post a parts needed post. Don't put this off.
My sugestion as to direct wiring to the battery was only intended as a test, not a solution.
If the motor doesn't overheat then I would look at the fuse block as was suggested. It may
look ok until you start pulling things apart and inspecting.
and definetly grease things up as was suggested...
Just an idea. Remove the wiper blades and run it for a long time jut to see if it over heats.
Who knows, you might have gotten a bad motor. At least this will isolate the problem a bit more.
Good luck
cucvrus: On most things, I agree with you not to change things from the original design.
Maybe I had bad luck, but when the original relay died and I got a proper replacement,
it died within a few months. I took the shell off of the relay and removed the internals.
then I connected wires to the...
Scotladdy, Maybe you or someone else could post up a sticky in the CUCV tips as to
what specific fluids are recomended for each of the CUCV equipment types. This would help
the newbes as well as some of us old timers to make the right decission when replenishing our
fluids. It is very easy to...
Welcome from California. I was brought up in Santurce #1 Vendig St.
Before it was a hotel and before it had an elevator. Only a shaft. Which is just fine if you don't live on the top floor.
Scottladdy:
"My understanding of the concern is that if the diaphragm in the mechanical pump fails/ruptures you can dump diesel fairly quickly into your crankcase. Not really possible if only using the mechanical pump since it would no longer pump if that was broken."
The issue came up when...
At one point I installed an electric pump as a backup system and read that I should
bypass the fuel line connections at the mechanical pump since this would avoid a problem with fuel forced into the non operational mechanical pump. I don't remember why this was supposed to be bad. You might...
Crazy idea: If you used a trailer, back the truck on to the trailer. If you get in a tight spot,
drive off the trailer and hitch the back end of the trailer to the rear of that truck and then detach the front from the primary vehicle. May need to set up some stuff so you can pull the trailer...
Found this in the CUCV wicki which is in the CUCV forum:
bracket bolt - 14060613 - M8 x 1.25 x 20 - hardware store
Pictures are nice, but you need to write down what is on the data plate on the starter.
One more thing just to cover the bases. I know that some of the starters require shims, but mine didn't, so I don't know any of the details. It is possible it is covered in the TM with
directions on how to measure this. Hopefully others will chime in.
It might be a good idea to right down the data on the starters data plate and post it,
just in case it is not quite the right starter. Probably not, but it's good to check and it is
right there in the bed.
Oh, and give your mother in law a wire brush and a can of rustoleum primer and ask her if...
I'm not sure whether the bracket bolt is metric or not.
If it were me I would get a new set of bolts just to make sure they were the right ones
and not something the previous owner had in his drawer.
Tinstar is absolutely right. Take the starter to a known reputable shop and have it rebuilt.
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