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The engine and transmission from my M47 have strata blue paint under the green paint too.

Looking good and sounding good too!![thumbzup][thumbzup][thumbzup][thumbzup]

Wow!!! I am sorry to see that. If you were closer I would give you my running OA-331 that came out of my 1951 REO M47. Have tried to source parts for your engine?

Cool truck! Looking forward to seeing your progress.

That is a 1952 Tucker Snocat (model 443) with the track/pontoons removed. Here is what a restored one looks like.

Here is the video... https://youtu.be/FKjW9Z1kcmE

I heard it run before I bought it, but it had a bad fuel pump, carburetor needed work and the water pump was shot, so I had it transported home. I got it running pretty good and drove it around the yard before I stripped it down to the frame. If you look at post #57 you should be able to view a...

I am sorry to say that aside from collecting the parts, not a lot of progress has been made. The only major items I still need to find are an air-shift xfer case the a set of torque rod ends. My time has been focused elsewhere (see pic below), but once I complete the auto to manual transmission...

Don't know the length, but here are the numbers: NSN PN DESC. 2590-00-679-3179 9092643 CONTROL ASSEMBLY PUSH-PULL: HAND THROTTLE,W/T HANDLE A

That is a clean looking truck!!! Looking forward to following this thread. BTW - The OA-331 in my M47 has what I assume to be strata-blue showing under the OD.

Excellent idea![thumbzup]

Frame is ready for final preparation, prior to priming and painting.

Nice looking rigs!

The good thing is the project is to the point where the only way to go now.. is back together.

I do not know the exact weight, but I guestimate it would be no more the 2000 lbs.

Down to the bare bones...

FWIW - The Ken-tool I have came with a 36" X 5/8" bar and a 30" x 5/8" bar.

I don't think you need (2) bars, but then you may need to support the end of the tool like was previously mentioned. My tool came with (2) bars, which works great for the lug nuts, but it might not be standard issue.

I have not had to use a jack stand when using the multiplier feature. The 2nd bar supports the tool just fine, I usually put a piece of wood under the bar the contacts the ground.

More progress...U-bolts holding rear leaf springs have 64 years of rust accumulation, which made them the most difficult fasteners to remove so far. Also got a quote of $900 to sandblast the bare frame, so I may end up using a wire brushes and a needle gun to clean up the frame prior to priming it.