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I believe it is an updated part, I seem to recall threads here about having to change the connector.

Sounds like a loose connection somewhere!

It does sound like it has been converted. I would hook the batteries up in parallel, as you described. That would include the wire to the 12v buss from the old 24v buss. For the starter issue, is your push button going directly to the starter solenoid, or through the starter relay under the...

If the truck came with only one alt, perhaps someone did a 12v conversion on it already? If so, then your batteries would need to be wired in parallel, not series, and then one 12v alt would charge them both. In which case, what was the 24v buss would be a 12v buss and your wiring of the...

spelling The diamond shaped buss is the 12v buss for the truck. In stock wiring, the front battery neg post goes to ground ( small gauge wire to the core support, heavy gauge wire to the ground buss under the 24v buss ), the pos post goes to the neg post of the rear battery with a tap off to...

Some of this was hard to see clearly in the video, but... That looks like you are connecting to the diamond-shaped 12v buss for power, but you are showing 24v there. I think you have the power to that 12v buss coming from the wrong place. As eme411 said, the resistor bank that sits on the...

Maybe the temp sensor for it is bad?

Check the speedo adapter on the transfer case, and the speedo gear inside the transfer case.

Are the running / headlights on when this happens? I could see a bad ground maybe causing this if the other lights are on. Otherwise, my guess would be a failing turn signal switch.

Could also just use your meter to see if the relay is shorted.

Another thing that can happen is that the switch for the black out drive light gets bumped, and the drive light stays on. It is very hard to see in the daytime, and not all that easy to see at night either. There is also a relay in that drive light circuit that stays energized until the black...

What cucvrus said can also happen to the solenoid on the starter, ie the contacts getting welded together and causing the starter to run.

My guess would be that with over half the glow plugs being bad, the resistor wasn't really working hard before. With all new plugs, the resistor probably got warm, and burned off any dust or debris that were on it. As for the spade terminal size difference, the stock Wellmans had the smaller...

Was it cold out? Is the glow plug wiring stock? If so, then my guess would be you are hearing the glow plug relay chatter, and seeing the resultant on/off load displayed on the voltmeter, and perhaps loading GEN 2 enough to cause the light to flicker.

By adding a shim... If the starters are made from rebuilt cores, there is a good chance the mating surface was machined. Or that they are a bit out of spec. Even if it was a new "shim-less" starter, I'd still want to check for proper engagement clearance between the bendix gear and the flex...

Maybe spelling is the problem? :-)

How would these compare to my trusty Fluke 77? Am I good with what I have, or is there a good reason to buy one of these in my case?

If your truck is stock, auto parts stores are unlikely to have an isolated-ground alt for the GEN2 position. I'd rebuild the one you have, either get a kit and do it yourself, or find a local shop to rebuild it.

Can you provide part numbers for the Energy Suspension mounts? Do they have one for the trans as well? I presume the bottle jack and wood blocks are to push out the original rubber insert, and to press in the new one?

Might have to trace it out. It could also be the wire from the seatbelt switch to the seatbelt reminder buzzer, which tends to get disconnected because it is annoying.