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Isn't that the top for a salt shaker, so you can choose how much comes out? :-)

If that does indeed work, I'd be happy to know it, as one of these days I'll be replacing my dash lights with LEDs, and would like to do a clean sweep. I've seen many posts here saying that the LED won't work in the GEN lights, and I can understand why. This error-free LED is new to me. Thank...

And when the current flow is reversed? I know there are bi-directional LEDs, but with the common uni-directional ones, it would have to be installed with the polarity correct to work the exciter circuit to at least get the alt charging, but would not light in the over-charge condition.

LEDs will not work in either GEN light position. This will cause problems with the exciter circuit, usually resulting in no charge from the alt. LEDs are Diodes, so only allow current flow in one direction. The exciter circuit flows both was, so to speak, depending on which side has the higher...

Most common seems to be middle plug on drivers side. Also be sure to run several heat/cool cycles of the engine before turning on the block heater. You want to be sure it is not sitting in an air pocket.

I'm sure Neo, Trinity and Morpheus are on it...

Could be one of the bulbs is bad, but I'd lean towards a bad ground, perhaps one of the ground tabs in the bulb sockets.

There have been several attacks on 'core servers' recently, many sites were affected by it.

in the case you mentioned, the two most common problems would be an issue with the horn button on the steering wheel, or the diode on the horn relay being shorted. There are other possibilities of course, but I think those would be the most common.

Good point, had only thought about it from the military radio issue...

The horn is part of the blackout switch, along with the lights. My guess is that the horn button is stuck on, probably a broken spring, so that when the blackout switch is in the Service lights on position, the horn relay activates. By the way, no need to replace the diode on the horn relay...

Perhaps the horn button in the steering wheel is the problem?

I think it is like the oil filler cap... if it rattles, it is good...

I've been running the Bosch Duraterm glow plugs since I bought the truck and did the 12v glow plug bypass. I bought them from CUCV Electric, with the new terminal connectors. Have had no issues so far.

Both are crankshaft seals, rear main and front cover / timing cover. The rear one is sometimes oil and grease being washed off the engine by fuel leaking in the valley at the top of the engine, as that drains down to where you are seeing it. Besides bad seals, it could be that your CDR valve...

I'm confused. Which one are you asking about? The one that was already installed, or did you swap it out for the new one? If you swapped them out, then how much has it been run since the swap? I'm asking because the instructions for those usually say to go through several run cycles before...

Check the switch first, as it is a known trouble area on these trucks. Sometimes the plug that attaches to the switch can go bad as well.

Also, take a look at the Helpful Threads sticky in the CUCV forum. Start with this one: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?62477-GP-Module-Theory-of-Operation

I'd start by checking the glow plug relay. Is it cycling when the wait light comes on? Usually a thunk can be heard. If it appears to be cycling, but no voltage on the glow plug side, check the input side of the relay. Also, the contacts in them can get carboned up and not pass voltage/current...

Please let us know how it goes. I've read other posts here where the reman steering boxes are not that great. At the present time, I'm planing on sending mine in to be rebuilt when I get to that part of the truck.