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And the position of the Service Lights switch?

Does the horn work? I know it is a simple thing, but is the BO light switch in the 'Service" position? Otherwise, all that you mentioned, in addition to the horn and headlights, will not work...

First of all, make sure your batteries are fully charged, and have them load tested. Failing batteries can lead to excessive loads and heat in the wiring. Second, check all your battery cables for good connections, etc. Corrosion can occur in the cables, near the connectors, and lead to...

The fuel shutoff solenoid on the IP is probably going bad.

You may have to remove the injector and reach inside to pull out the broken pieces.

If it is actually reading, not just staying where it was when turned off, then it is getting a ground from somewhere. This could, over a long period of sitting, drain the batteries a bit. As to the light, I had thought the original one had two wires, but as it only had one, it was using the...

That part is NLA. I *think* the purpose was to keep the lines connected properly, ie Top to Transmission...

Get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and see if the one in the dash is accurate or not... you mentioned that it has been "a bit wonky", so I don't know that I'd trust anything it says...

The other thing to consider is that diesels just haven't sold well to the general consumer in the US. Gasoline has always been cheap here, often cheaper than diesel. Compare this with Europe where gasoline is very expensive, and diesel vehicles sell much better to the general public. That is...

That should do it! One thing to remember... the 24v wire to the gauge is hot at all times, and it is easy to short it out on the dash, etc. The ground for the gauge is provided by one of the relays under the dash next to the GEN 2 relay and the starter relay. So, the gauge must be isolated from...

Pictures please. If you are talking about the big round plug attached to the bottom of the dash, that is the diagnostic port, and is not for radios.

Amp meters measure the flow of current, like how much a fan motor is drawing, etc, and thus must be in-line with the thing being measured. Putting one in place of the stock voltmeter, without changing the way it is wired, will create a dead short. Using an off-the shelf 12v volt meter should...

That is an amp meter, not a volt meter, so I'm not surprised it is blowing the fuse, as it appears as a short circuit.

Two things: 1) A faulty CDR can lead to over-pressure in the crankcase, leading to leaks - though these usually show up at the rear main seal, so I doubt it would be casing the valve covers to leak. Some say replace the CDR, others say wash it in solvent and reuse. 2) Oil at the weep hole at...

The volt meter in the CUCV is a 12v meter. They use a resistor across the terminals to drop the 24v feed to 12v. However, the gauge doesn't look exactly like the one shown.

Where did you mount the rest of the radio? What did you do for the antenna and antenna mount? I need to get my 8800 installed one of these days.. was thinking about using a short jumper cable in the feedline that would go through the hole in the top, so the top could be removed without messing...

Start with the CUCV Helpful Threads sticky at the top of the CUCV forum

Blackout drive light on? Very hard to see in the daylight, and can drain the front battery over time.

Couldn't one use their monthly power bill as a baseline for your "typical" usage?

Sounds like it is not charging at idle, and it should be charging. My guess would be that either your idle is low, or, more likely, the pulley is the wrong size, so the alternator is not spinning fast enough at idle. Just my thoughts, your mileage may vary.