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I'd be happy to store one for you... as long as you don't mind it being mounted on my truck while being stored... :-P

Should be 12v on a CUCV. Just for fun, maybe try blowing air down the return line to see if the line is clear to the tank?

Maybe the return line check valve on the back of the IP is plugged up, causing back-pressure, that is relieved by running it with the cover loose?

Looks like you are off to a good start. That wire across the firewall to the 12v buss next to the brake master cylinder connects to the cable that goes between the two batteries. Here is a good reference for most of this stuff...

The little rubber fitting thing is NLA. Hook the lines directly to the valve. Top to Transmission.

The one for the driving light snaps back. The one of the Service / Blackouts does not.

Have all the vacuum lines been replaced? A leak anywhere in the line can cause it to shift late. Also check the metal portion of the vacuum line(s), as it has been known to rub in places and get a hole in it. As also mentioned, the weights / springs in the governor may be different than for a...

I agree with the earlier poster, that there must be a ground issue somewhere. Are the grounds for the headlights good? They connect up by the radiator. What the other poster was referring to is that the bulb socket has a ground tab that tends to corrode / break and not provide a good ground, and...

The light and the plugs are not necessarily going to be on at the same time. You might find this useful: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?62477-GP-Module-Theory-of-Operation

Don't trust GL / GP pictures or descriptions... always inspect before bidding if at all possible...

Have you tested the glow plugs themselves as per the directions in the TM? From the test with the test light, that just confirms that the GP relay is working enough to light the test light, but doesn't verify the voltage getting to the glow plug, or that the glow plug is working.

How about a loose / broken power steering bracket? They can generate some strange noises...

Perhaps the PO put an non-isolated ground alt in the GEN1 position? Then it wouldn't need a ground wire. One of the wires on the back of GEN1 is the tach feed for the diag plug. For GEN2, if this is still a 24v truck, then its 'ground' terminal is in fact connected to the 12v buss. This gives...

Sounds like the blackout light switch is not in the 'service' position...

If you don't have extra parts when you are done with the job, you didn't do it right! :grin:

The stater relay under the dash is controlled by 12v from the ignition switch, and it sends 24v to the starter solenoid.

I would suggest cleaning all the grounds at the lights, and verify that the ground tabs in the light sockets are good.

I'm guessing that the banging noise was relay / solenoid chatter when trying to turn over with the weak batteries.

Cool. This is the video I was thinking of: https://youtu.be/GTmxlDXL8hc

Maybe it is like the ones on the old Ford tractors, where the turning of the flywheel once the engine starts is needed to get it to retract? Those can't be retracted easily by hand once in the extended position. Saw a YT video where they used a wire wheel on a grinder to get it to spin fast...