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I have used aftermarket on a 004 and 005. A 006 shouldnt be too difficult. Can you clarify your comment on 2 of 3 legs? if you have excitation the whole head should be putting out power.

The reason we used it was due to the quick drying. we were able to find hydraulic leaks faster with it. Its less effective on weeping low pressure leaks but still useful.

If it were me, I would check clearences, then pull injectors for testing (while they are out compression test). unless i absolutely need to, i tend to leave the IP in place as they are a pita and the timing procedure is annoying

I used to use CRC contact cleaner QD for leak detection spray the surface down blow it dry and see if it gets wet again

The onboard gauges are not the best, The frequency meter being the biggest pain of all. verify your frequency with a known good multimeter. on more than one set i have had to replace the frequency meter, This usually involves replacing (or in your typical aftermarket gauge) bypassing the...

Beginning of vid c. The linkage moves up then the engine stalls. Up is more throttle, it's odd that it moves up before is sounds like an stall.

I had this on a 004. Drove me crazy. Ended up being the oil drain valve.

I used my welding skills to make a new frame. The OEM batteries are way bigger than they need to be

That worked. Definitely not normal behavior.

Id also look at current draw, and coil resistance (both idle and after stalling)

Your videos are in your Google drive so when you click them yes you can view them however when one of us that doesn't have access to your Google drive clicks them it tells us it's restricted and needs permission to access the drive In your test setup you need something to restrict flow to...

Need access for the videos, but quickly just off the top of my head is your stopping pumping at pressure just clicking really slow?

If you had a good ground the pump should run when connected and in prime\run. Unless you have the wrong pump lead connected

Iirc it won't crank with the battle short on

How did you ground the pumps? The solenoid connection might have been providing a ground path

Another silly stupid thing, Check the tank cap vent.

Might be worth checking feed through. the pumps were designed to allow 1 to fail and still deliver fuel. There is a similar model that doesnt allow this and a bad pump will stall the engine.

I found these specs on line for the fuel pump. Maximum fuel delivery 33 gallons per hour at free flow. Maximum pressure 6 to 8 psi. Typical flow 15 gph @ 2 psi. 1/4 NPT male fittings. Features a built-in EMI filter to minimize radio interference. This pump includes an internal 74 micron...

I would test for flow as well. Pressure is just part of the equation.