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Mep 006A won't turn over

Powermaker16

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Charleston, SC
Hey Guys, I am totally lost with my generator. I bought it off a guy who just replaced the turbo and when we test it, it blew white smoke, and he said it was still burning off oil from the turbo replacement. I get it home and decide to do a fluid change and find diesel in the engine oil, so I order new injectors figuring one or two are stuck open. I replace those, drain NINE gallons of oil/diesel mix, replace the fuel and oil filters and fill back up with oil. Go through normal start up process of battle switch (until full), then hit the start button, except this time, the fuel battle pump comes back on. Thinking the sensors are wack from the work just performed, I jump the start solenoid while holding the start button and it fires up!!! But, after two or 3 minutes it shuts down. I flip battle switch, hold the start button, jump the solenoid and it fires up again. When it goes to shut down, it pushed up on the start button and it came back to life, but only while holding it up. I didn't do anything electrical. Just changed fluids and the injectors. Can someone tell me what happened? Thanks!!
 

Guyfang

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Hey Guys, I am totally lost with my generator. I bought it off a guy who just replaced the turbo and when we test it, it blew white smoke, and he said it was still burning off oil from the turbo replacement. (Or the oil/fuel level was so high in the engine, that some of it made it into the cylinders. Been there, done that.) I get it home and decide to do a fluid change and find diesel in the engine oil, so I order new injectors figuring one or two are stuck open. I replace those, (If you had said something earlier, we might have saved you some money. No way a stuck Injector can put that much fuel in the oil. Your problem is or was, incase its been fixed, is the two leather seals on the IP drive shaft. Possibility #1, the seals are worn out. Possibility #2, someone had the IP off, and reinstalled it wrong. The seals have to be carefully put on and the shaft has to be VERY carefully reinstalled so the first sel does not flip over. This is the only way oil/fuel get mixed on this engine. So if you run the set, you need to check oil often to see if the fuel is still draining into the oil. ) drain NINE gallons of oil/diesel mix, replace the fuel and oil filters and fill back up with oil. Go through normal start up process of battle switch (until full), then hit the start button, except this time, the fuel battle pump ( What is a Fuel Battle Pump?) comes back on. Thinking the sensors are wack from the work just performed, I jump the start solenoid while holding the start button and it fires up!!! (This is normal) But, after two or 3 minutes it shuts down. (Because you are running out of fuel?) I flip battle switch, hold the start button, jump the solenoid and it fires up again. (Normal. Its a diesel. Fuel, oil and compression. ) When it goes to shut down, it pushed up on the start button and it came back to life, but only while holding it up. I didn't do anything electrical. Just changed fluids and the injectors. Can someone tell me what happened? Thanks!!

First, lets find out about the IP. Does it look like its been taken off? Did the guy you bought it from tell you anything about this problem? I would assume that its not been fixed. So you need to get the seals and replace them right. Its not hard. You do have to remove some stuff to get at the shaft. Its kinda a PITA. But take your time, read the maintenance procedure 1-2 times and it easy.

Next, do you have the TM's and have you read the start up procedure?

Are you getting any fault light when trying to start the set?

Have you reset the S10, (Overspeed Switch)

This gives you something to start with. Tell us something.
 

Powermaker16

New member
8
2
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Location
Charleston, SC
Hey Guys, I am totally lost with my generator. I bought it off a guy who just replaced the turbo and when we test it, it blew white smoke, and he said it was still burning off oil from the turbo replacement. (Or the oil/fuel level was so high in the engine, that some of it made it into the cylinders. Been there, done that.) I get it home and decide to do a fluid change and find diesel in the engine oil, so I order new injectors figuring one or two are stuck open. I replace those, (If you had said something earlier, we might have saved you some money. No way a stuck Injector can put that much fuel in the oil. Your problem is or was, incase its been fixed, is the two leather seals on the IP drive shaft. Possibility #1, the seals are worn out. Possibility #2, someone had the IP off, and reinstalled it wrong. The seals have to be carefully put on and the shaft has to be VERY carefully reinstalled so the first sel does not flip over. This is the only way oil/fuel get mixed on this engine. So if you run the set, you need to check oil often to see if the fuel is still draining into the oil. ) drain NINE gallons of oil/diesel mix, replace the fuel and oil filters and fill back up with oil. Go through normal start up process of battle switch (until full), then hit the start button, except this time, the fuel battle pump ( What is a Fuel Battle Pump?) comes back on. Thinking the sensors are wack from the work just performed, I jump the start solenoid while holding the start button and it fires up!!! (This is normal) But, after two or 3 minutes it shuts down. (Because you are running out of fuel?) I flip battle switch, hold the start button, jump the solenoid and it fires up again. (Normal. Its a diesel. Fuel, oil and compression. ) When it goes to shut down, it pushed up on the start button and it came back to life, but only while holding it up. I didn't do anything electrical. Just changed fluids and the injectors. Can someone tell me what happened? Thanks!!

First, lets find out about the IP. Does it look like its been taken off? Did the guy you bought it from tell you anything about this problem? I would assume that its not been fixed. So you need to get the seals and replace them right. Its not hard. You do have to remove some stuff to get at the shaft. Its kinda a PITA. But take your time, read the maintenance procedure 1-2 times and it easy.

Unfortunately, I am no mechanic. I had someone come over to the work above. As far as the IP, I was not told anything about it, and I honestly don't know what it is. When I bought it, it was running, and I didn't know it needed work or I wouldn't have made the purchase. I am a carpenter and started a cabinet business. I need 460v to run a huge belt sander so that is what this unit is for. I can only get single phase 220v in my area.

Next, do you have the TM's and have you read the start up procedure?

I do not have the TM's and all I know about starting it (which I have done and successfully had running before the maintenance work) was flip the run switch on, then the battle switch. When I hear the battle start to wind down, I shut it off, and hit the start button. That process did work until it was worked on.

Are you getting any fault light when trying to start the set?

Only fault light currently on is the Low Oil Pressure, which I expect until the unit is up and running. The light test does show they all work.

Have you reset the S10, (Overspeed Switch)

I have not. I do not know how.


This gives you something to start with. Tell us something.
 

Guyfang

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IP is the Injector pump. This is not a 60 KW, but its as close to a twin brother as you need to get.
1736610291581.jpeg

Link to the TM's for you or your mechanic.



This is the S10, (Over Speed Switch). OK, on a gen set, when you are looking at the control panel, you are looking at the rear of the set. Open the front left door and you will see a beer can looking thing. It can be like this picture, or horizonal mounted. There is a button on the end. Push it in. Thats the reset.
1736610696776.jpeg

So we are on the same sheet of music, the S7 is the Battle Short Switch. The ticking you hear is the Electric fuel pumps. The way (I assume, and thats always something one should not do) you start the set is, that you push in the CB1, (The DC circuit Breaker to the right side of the control panel). Then you turn the S2, (Start Switch) on to the prime run position. Then push up the S7, (Battle Short Switch) and listen to the electric pumps run. Then you turn S7 off, and turn the S2 to start. And it started. That about right? When the E-pumps slow down, that should mean that the Day tank is full.

Now, you say that when you turn the S2 to Start, the E-pumps came back on, right? Other than that, absolutely NOTHING else happens? No other lights on the Fault Indicator but low Oil Pressure? Do you hear any other clicking, or mechanical noise? When you jumped the starter to get it running, did any other lights come on, on the fault indicator? Did the low Oil Pressure go out?
 

Powermaker16

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Charleston, SC
So i decided to just try it today and it cranked!! I didn’t do anything different than before. It did die after a minute with the over volt light coming on. I started it again and it ran. After a couple minutes the rpm’s started to drop. They kept getting lower and lower no matter what i did to the knob that goes to the injection pump. It finally died. I flipped the battle switch, but based on the sound, it sounded still full. Turned it off, hit start, and lost power. The positive terminal from one of the batteries melted and the wire came loose. Also. Can you tell me the proper position of this knob? IMG_8517.jpegIMG_8518.jpegIMG_8517.jpegIMG_8518.jpeg
 

Guyfang

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The knob is to adjust the RPM. RPM = Hertz. Normally, you get the set running, and adjust this knob until you have 60-61 hertz on the meter. THEN LEAVE IT ALONE! Do not push it in when turning the set off. Do not fool with it unless your Hertz is low or high. Leave it right there till hell freezes over. Idling this gen set will do VERY bad things to the AC volt regulator.

When the RPM slowly dies off, you have a fuel problem.
1. Is the fuel selector switch in the Fuel tank SET, position Where is the fuel tank selector switch? Go to the right side of the set. Stand in the middle. Look down and you will see a selector handle. A data plate should be there to tell you, OFF, SET or AUX. Make sure its in the SET position.
2. Then go to the Day Tank. The day tank is also on the right side. Open the front door. The small tank there on the side of the engine, is the day tank. Tap on it. See if it sounds empty. Tell me what you find.
 
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Powermaker16

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Woohoo it is running!!! Well kinda, it is blowing white smoke and I can’t get the hertz up. I used to be able to get it up to 60 hertz before the work was done. Percent of power flips back and forth occasionally from zero to 133%. Ac amp meter says zero, but I have 220 volts. Let it run for 15 minutes and still no change in the ability to increase the hertz IMG_8525.jpegIMG_8525.jpegIMG_8524.jpegIMG_8525.jpeg
 

Guyfang

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The knob in post #8. You can not use it to adjust the hertz? Turn it to the left for minor adjustments. Push in the button and pull on the know for big adjustments.
 

Guyfang

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Percent of power flips back and forth occasionally from zero to 133%. Ac amp meter says zero, but I have 220 volts.

This Might be because the Thermal Watt converter is bad.
 

Powermaker16

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I am beginning to think the electrical part of this unit is going bad. I feel my rpm’s are high enough to get the 60 hertz I need, but the gauge isn’t moving at all, so I’m thinking it’s a power issue. IMG_8538.jpeg
 

Scoobyshep

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The onboard gauges are not the best, The frequency meter being the biggest pain of all. verify your frequency with a known good multimeter. on more than one set i have had to replace the frequency meter, This usually involves replacing (or in your typical aftermarket gauge) bypassing the transducer(cube square thing in the control cube).
 

Guyfang

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I am beginning to think the electrical part of this unit is going bad. I feel my rpm’s are high enough to get the 60 hertz I need, but the gauge isn’t moving at all, so I’m thinking it’s a power issue.

Nothing of the kind. It is not an electrical problem. Your throttle cable is hooked up wrong, or its hanging up on something. Do you have a multimeter that reads hertz? How do you feel that the RPM's are high enough? The gage, as mentioned before are not real reliable. But if you have AC voltage, you have hertz.
 

cbrTodd

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Like Guyfang said, the only electrical thing in that injection pump is the on / off solenoid in the cover. If you are getting any fuel it's unlikely that it's the problem.

I went many rounds with an unruly 006A a while back (I will put the link to my thread below) and it had some similar symptoms to this. I never saw white smoke, but I never messed with it in the winter, either. I did have problems with it wanting to slowly drop speed and die despite having verified that the fuel filters were good.

Verify the accuracy of the frequency meter as others have suggested. If you can't turn the speed knob or press the button and move the knob to get the engine to the right speed, then there is a fueling problem, not an electrical problem. If you take that 2 screw inspection cover off the side of the injection pump it should be completely full of clean fuel. In my case there was a bunch of crud in there from old fuel and a failing flex ring. No matter how much clean fuel came down from the day tank, it couldn't get into the hydraulic head fast enough to make it run right. After some teething pains figuring out the linkage adjustments of a civilian calibration rebuild on the pump, the injection pump rebuild fixed that one up.

 
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