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Caging the brakes and using a regular truck is not a bad idea. I thought about using my 1-ton truck to pull a trailer but the trailers I was looking at are fairly stout and heavy, even unloaded.

I'm heading down to my truck early next week and I'd like to have the fittings on hand before I get there to save another trip to town. I looked in the TM but it doesn't show sizes. What size fittings do I need to add a loop? I'm assuming regular tubing fittings on a piece of tygon tubing or...

Quaker- Thanks- I understand now! I'll take your words to heart and give the fuel supply a thorough look. It should be easy to pressurize and see any leaks. Hopefully my fix will be as easy as yours but without the 'learning' headache.

Re:45 mins— This will be my first time so I expect an all morning job. I need to replace a broken cam follower so probably just remove that one head to inspect the innards while I have the top rack off. I’m assuming I have to replace all the gaskets, right?

I couldn't find anything in the forum about how to inspect the cylinder liners and piston heads without removing the head. Can you drop on borescope through the injector port? I think you need to remove a cup underneath the injector to drop through, but even then I'm not sure what is the...

Can I test this by sitting in neutral, revving up to driving RPM and then letting off the throttle? I vaguely remember testing it this way and the truck responded normally so maybe the TC is suspect. I won't be around the truck until early next week but wanted to get all the knowledge needed...

I didn't think about the torque converter as a possibility......hmmmmm. So, how would I test or rule out the TC?

Truck starts and runs solid. But when I let off the throttle to turn a corner or such, the engine rpm drops below idle and sometimes dies on me. Not a fun time when turning so I generally keep the throttle pressed a bit. I looked through the forum but only found the this thread that says the...

Like I mentioned before, we have an account with McMaster and they do a great job. They have slipped a bit because now you don't know the shipping costs and delivery until after you 'pay'. I've realized for small, lightweight items (gaskets, o-rings, etc.), it's easier and cheaper to not use...

That is really good info I did not know. Luckily I bought the Titan ones- thanks!

Nice try but I recommend using the search function before posting a query (as was the advice given to me here). Wes has already done an amazing job of cross-listing most commercially available parts for the M939s in the old 5-ton forum (Mods- please move it and other relevant stickies to the...

Some of you are taking this request waaaaaay too extreme. I specially was asking for a source of commercially available 5/8-18 flange nuts....not necessary the government versions with NSN's. A lot of us ask for similar sources on o-rings, oils, greases, tire valve stems, filters, commercial...

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Dang- I even searched eBay and didn’t see those. Thanks Wes!

Looks like those are the distorted version where they slightly compress them to make them out of round enough to become self-locking. Are the OEM version on the LMTV/FMTV like this? Not that it matters...just really really curious what the standard issue was. I'll call them in the morning- thanks

Looking for a source of quality flange nuts for studs that LMTV wheels together. Need at least 60 but will take a hundred since 20 per wheel. Any recommendations?

Amazon has the 475lb torque sticks for -$80. Same range as the Klutch multiplier Wes shows in his video.

Second on the above. Supporting our own is a good thing. On the flip side, I purchased two new M939 mufflers off Ebay for $90 each shipped to the front door in 3 days.

Yup- good idea. For the cost of the torque stick or decent breaker bar, I can buy a torque multiplier and keep it in the truck. Nice video for it too. And I generally coat all lugs and other high torque items with a copper anti-seize as you mention. A little bit of it goes a long way.

Forgot to add two items: First, if you want a 'better' grade of battery, go with industrial series (for rigs and heavy equipment like dozers) as they are built to withstand lots of vibration. The internals for industrials are built heavier than than the standard Costco, Walmart, Autozone, etc...