Search results

If that relay is clicking when you connect it, but the key is off, then I'd leave it out until you trace the problem. I'd guess either an out of adjustment ignition switch, or a bad ignition switch. As for it not cranking at all, perhaps that was the problem the previous owner had with it... the...

This is exactly what I was told was the reason our '94 Ford Explorer used a dummy light switch for the oil pressure gauge. The Ford tech said they got too many complaints from owners that the "oil pressure dropped at stoplights" etc... So they soldered a resistor to the back of the instrument...

As I recall, the left switch only controls the blackout driving light, not the ones in the bumpers. The bumper blackout lights *should* turn off with the right switch being in the off or service light positions.

My understanding is that the fuel shutoff solenoid gets hot and stops working, so the cool water gets it going again. If so, then replace the fuel shutoff solenoid.

Its all relative... relative to the other CUCVs, the M1009 is a rocket....

You could look in the -20p and -34p TMs and get the GM part number, then google it...

I think you answered your own question. One, or both, of the batteries is bad. If the bad battery has a short, I don't think it will start, even with a jump.

Could also be a bad switch in the steering column causing the DH relay to stay engaged. Simple test with a meter, or your ear, to see if the DH relay is engaging when the cables are connected. I'd disconnect the solenoid wire from the starter before testing though. Should tape it off as well, to...

The small wire that is part of the dog bone cable from the front battery positive terminal to the rear battery neg terminal feeds the 12v distribution block over next to the brake master cylinder. When doing the 12v glow plug bypass, the power for the glow plug relay is often run to that 12v...

I'd suggest using a vacuum gauge to see if the vacuum pump is working properly.

It is my understanding that the portion of the GP harness that connect to the individual GPs is made from fusible link wire. If it is burning up, there may be one or more GPs that are shorted to ground. Take a look at the TMs for the GP system diag procedure. A simple multimeter will tell you...

I'd suggest reading the Fusible Link sticky at the top of the CUCV forum.

It could be a number of things. Perhaps the relay, or the temp sender, or the card, bad glow plugs, etc. A volt meter and the troubleshooting steps in the TM should pin point the problem. You could try jumpering the two big lugs on the glow plug relay for 5 seconds or so, and then try to start...

Before that happens, I'd like to know what happened, why no updates, etc. I looked around a bit, but didn't see anything explaining why it was not finished. Thanks.

While Doghead may know what that is in your picture, there are others that may come across this thread that do not.

I thought it was just the fuel shutoff solenoid on the IP that is the problem, not the pump itself...

M1009... only one fuel tank, does not use saddle tanks.

And the people that post on internet forums are all English majors who never misspell anything, always use correct grammar and actually know what they are talking about?