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Unless some conversion from stock was done, those batteries don't look like they are hooked up correctly to me. Either that or I'm missing something.

Please read the fusible link sticky near the top of the CUCV forum.

Maybe there should be a Sticky in the CUCV forum on the fusible links... oh, wait.. :o

The solenoid on the starter could be stuck. I would suggest disconnecting the power cable that runs to the starter from the 24v buss, then get out the test light and see if the DH starter relay is getting power when the battery is connected. The ignition switch has more than one set of contacts...

"additional steering piston linked into the Power Steering Pump" :?:

Um.... nopics Sorry, had to be said... :grin:

Yes, it has the hydroboost system, and yours probably needs to be rebuilt. Search is your friend, well sometimes... use google or bing, etc to search the site here, as the search here is not the best. Replacement, and probably rebuilding, of the hydroboost system has been covered here before...

Bad fuel shut off solenoid on the IP? Bad IP?

Woodsplinter - I had seen the pictures of the Idaho Motor Pool truck that went down the hill, but hadn't thought about calling them, thank you for the suggestion. Bigginstactical - The perk test is for the septic system, correct? I knew that is what we would probably have, but hadn't thought...

Might be a good time to look into doing the 12v bypass for the glow plug power source. There are many posts and threads about it.

We are planning a trip up there soon to look at different areas, try to get at least a bit of a feel for where to look closer, assuming it feels "right". My wife can work remotely, as long as there is a good Internet connection. For me, I used to do tech support in the FIS industry, but don't...

Have you had the top off yet? If not, you might find rust there too, between the top and the cab.

I'd rather not go into the politics of the matter, thank you. :D We have a short list of States to look at, and ID is the first on the list to be checked out.

We are planning on moving out of CA, for various reasons. Our time frame is a bit wide, depending on if we wait for the boys to finish High School, etc. Idaho is on our short list of places to consider. We have a trip planned soon to have a look around CDA and areas North of there. I would...

Yes, they are both the same, isolated ground alternators. Well, assuming no one has swapped them out with something else. It is not uncommon to use a standard alternator on the drivers side. Only the passenger side alternator *MUST* be an isolated ground unit.

Many auto parts houses have fusible link wire, you just need to get the correct size. I would test the glow plug, as it is probably shorted.

Toggle the blackout drive light switch, as that is just a momentary to either engage or disengage a relay for the driving blackout light. That one is very easy to not notice it is on, since the switch is always in the middle position, and the light is very hard to see in any kind of daylight...

Always remember the most basic piece of advice regarding the CUCV: "The first rule of owing a CUCV, 'If its electrical clean it, if its rubber replace it'." That will fix many of your problems. On the dash light issue, have you tried turning the headlight knob? You know, old school dimmer control?

Sorry, I was trying to be silly. So far, after replacing the leaking drain plug seal, mine has been fine. I'm just using the Wally World brand.

All the part numbers you'll ever need are in the -20p and -34p TMs, which are available free here on this site.