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interesting thought, I feel very strongly the lift pump is doing its job as it shoots diesel out of the fuel filter. In fact as soon as I loosened the clamp on the hose it started spraying diesel. Also, why didnt it run when I filled the IP with Diesel? BUT I will investigate!

Going to do more testing. When I opened the cover is was very clean but dry, no diesel. I filled it up with Diesel Kleen. I tried starting it when I first filled it up and again in the morning with no luck. I wasnt able to mess with it much today, this evening I tried starting it again...

Well damn, I rechecked the ground I used and it wasnt good. Rechecked the solenoid with a confirmed ground and it opened and closed just fine. Back to the drawing board.

BINGO! Last night (while I couldn't sleep) I was thinking of ways to test the fuel shut off solenoid and it was actually very easy, I took the cover off plugged 54 wire back in and had the wife turn the key and nothing. I confirmed it was getting 24V but didnt move at all.

I tested the driver back cylander fuel line off the injector and absolutely nothing came out. I opened the IP and poured Diesel clean in it as well as into the injection pump intake line and turned it over a good bit to try and help it move through the system. Ill try to start it agin in the...

Im leaving toward bad injection pump. I followed this guide: https://gear-report.com/hmmwv-fuel-system-troubleshooting-tip/ Plenty of fuel is leaving the fuel filter/sep but using a 1/4" clean tubing I can see the IP is pulling almost no fluid. Anyone know who much the IP should be pulling?

Turns out my charge controller was off and giving me a wierd reading. Batteries are fine. It has to be fuel related. If its hot outside will the hummer still spout white smoke if its getting fuel? I'm about to do some fuel tests like purging air out of the system.

While testing this I found my batteries were at 14v! I have no idea how it started the first time but it did. Added fresh fuel and waiting for the charger to do its thing.

My R1 was running like a top when I left for vacation, when I got back 6 days later I went to move it and it fired right up but died immediatly. Tried to start it again but it just cranks strongly with no start. All maintanance was done recently, new-ish glow plugs and temperature control unit...

now none of them work. And yes, check that socket's ground agains other working bulbs and the back graound on the outside. They all had onctinuity.

Excellent post, (not sorry for reviving it) I did the mod and all signals work except back passanger. I checked voltage at the socket and it seems to be the same as the driver side socket that is working. I tried three different bulbs as well. Any idea what could be wrong?

Found 2 wires completely destroyed and nearly welded together. one was a 27 wire heading to Smart Box. Fixed the two wires and she fired right up! Im really surprised this isnt a more common issue?

You were exactly right! the steering knuckle was rubbing the main wire loom over the steering shaft. Not only did I find a random broken ground (Not part of the main ground harness) but I saw the webbing around the loom was broken. I used my video scope to get closer and bingo damaged wires and...

Thank you so much for the better diagram. I cannot for the life of me find a STI/ICE pin diagram. Is it the same as the 4l80 diagnostic port layout?

seems like all of those wires are hard to access. How did you get them so loose?

no it just lifted the tire up, and bend the jack pretty good!

Yup. Actually surprised how clean the connections looks.

Well, finally got all of the chores done on HMMWV went to take it for a test drive and accidentally ran over my hi-lift jack, I put it in drive to move over the jack but I heard sparks and looked forward to see sparks and smoke coming from somewhere behind the "dash" (seemed to be coming from...

well aware its 24v hence the problem. "2: Can the constant 12V wire be tied into the 12V ignition trigger (I have a stepdown triggered on an ignition relay for other 12V accessories)" - from my first post.

I talked to the Gauge mfr and they said its perfectly fine to tie they constant source into the ignition sourced power. Mechanic brother in law said the constant power may be used to store programs or functions (like high/low or what color to display) since Im not too concerned about that Im...