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Been driving Square bodies and GM products for about 40 years.... IMHO no harm done using ATF. The leak/seal damage was inflicted by me while cleaning, blasting and painting the steering box! I always use the appropriate oil or lube on whatever i'm working on (for customers or self). GM...

Thanks for the response..... Understand this isn't a "willy nilly" repair but not super technical either.... I've had issues with remans in the past, lots of issues! And even with a "limited" lifetime warranty, I have to do the job a second, and sometimes more, time!!!! Used to get...

Next on the list is replacing the steering input shaft seal. Would prefer and think I can do it with box installed. Have to pull steering column anyway to replace wiper switch and investigate ign stiff when cold. Seal kit for that end is cheap, but would I be better off using the gm...

Springs are in. Raised it apx 1.25 inches. Half inch of that is thicker spring pack (4 vs 3 lv) Will probably settle a bit but higher capacity will alleviate the interference issue . No clue as to road manners, as not currently liscensed.... Definitely going to need some sort of step...

Yes, wider tires may/will hit the drag link.... Requires slight adjustment of turn limit bolts. Best to do it BEFORE boot gets ripped! Eric

285 75 16 will work. Normally it doesn't rub, but large load of wood and some off road maneuvering will sometimes barely touch lower fender. Am replacing my 3 leaf front springs with 4 leaf, between new and additional leaf should clear now! 85 series tires are available now, but may eventually...

Believe the petcock to radiator are pipe thread. Meaning it goes in until tight, doesn't have to be flush....

Quite a few years ago my new to me M1008 was warming up prior to plowing..... Looked outside and the cab was full of smoke!!!!!!!!!!! Long story short, mouse nest in heater box was in contact with the heater resistor and caught fire. Moral of the story is, if vehicle has been sitting, or...

M1008: So, have upgraded (this year) from a 7.5' to 8' Fisher speedcast plow. Headers and exhaust installed when truck redone were fine until I started plowing last year. These were used Hookers from my Camaro... Header to front shaft interference is pretty common on the square bodies...

With wheel jacked up crack bleeder. If it releases it's a hydraulic issue. Seen rubber hoses collapse and hold pressure, MC, Etc.... If no release then it's a mechanical issue at each wheel. (Unlikely, but never say never)

I've used ATS for truck springs for years now.... Good product, knowledgeable and fast shipping... https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com/

Different rims? (offset or backspace?)

Would suggest alignment prior to driving couple thousand miles on new tires! Only adjustment (other than steering wheel center) is toe-in. Start soaking tie-rod and drag link adjustments sleeves now!

I used to buy from Amsco Valley forge. Web site is a little awkward, but whenever I called the person on the other end was ALWAYS knowledgeable, or passed me to the one who was. Imagine that, a REAL person!!! Only sells to wholesale, but most people "know" someone in the trades.....

Believe the speaker brackets came from here: https://www.73-87.com/Parts/7387SpeakerBrackets/73-87%20Cab%20Corner%20Speaker%20Brackets.htm I also purchased and installed the same set. Happy with the end result. Rifle brackets removed in my case, radio and tunes more important than securing...

Make sure the diff vent is working. If clogged it can build pressure when it warms up and push oil past seals....

Hoping you put a stop on the rear driveshaft repair as shaft will need shortened with OD unit! (Believe this to be true?)

Quick google of that GM number says it's correct cover. Trans case may have been replaced at some point. I wouldn't drill transmission case, but can you drill through cover to use the two bottom bolts? Only real purpose is to keep debris away from seals/rotating parts... nothing structural!

The Roloc discs work great, but..... Those fibers are one of the worst things you can get in the motor! Make sure you clean any extra flying about residue! And, they do remove metal, so go light....

So.... Jack front end up. Apply and release brakes. Spin wheel ensuring drag present. Crack bleeder at caliper.... Spin again If drag goes away that means residual pressure is applying brakes! CLOSELY inspect hard lines. Have seen kinked/smashed lines cause problems, but not so common...