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@ECS - I think this was the best possible outcome. No parts or repairs required leaves more time and money for other stuff. :beer:

What's the position of this switch (S6)? To configure the voltage meter (M1) to measure 240 volts single phase, you'll want it on the position identified by the purple spot on the red arc in this picture.

I think a lot of the noise on my 802 was coming from the 4 lifting rings in the corners of the skid. I added a small piece of bubble wrap around them to quiet them down. I've also read about folks removing the little locking pieces that hold the doors open, since they tend to rattle too...

How many of the outback power inverters do you have? If you have 3, you could hook 1 to each pair of phases L1+L2, L2+L3, L3+L1 and should be well balanced. If you have 2, you could spread the load across all 3 phases (L1+L2, L2+L3), but not as evenly. Never underestimate the value of hero...

Personally, I would go to the local John Deere dealership and buy some "Cool-Gard II", which is their brand of heavy duty coolant. It's what JD would put in that engine when it's in their tractors.

Curious... What kind of junk was in the hard line? Was someone in the past running it with bad/missing filters, or did the hardline corrode itself shut?

Nice work! Thanks for sharing (y)

Got the cattle fed before the snow began again. Had my brother in law verify the battery cables. All was correct there. I toggled the dead crank switch from NORMAL to OFF and back to NORMAL. Then went to show him how the panel was dead, but it wasn't dead this morning... Turned the master...

Thanks Ray70, I'll run through those checks tomorrow.

Thanks for confirming my thought process. I went through most of that in my first post. Seems like something may have failed before/during the battery change.

Got the TMs. I'll work through the ENGINE FAILS TO CRANK portion of the -24 tomorrow.

Yes, the batteries are in series to make 24v. After charging the lower battery, I'm reading 24.7v at the slave receptacle. No change to the panel after charging.

I tested the voltage of the new batteries. One was 12.25 and the other was 11.77, so I hooked a charger to the one that was low.

A month ago, I noticed that the 803 at my in-law's ranch was slow to turn over when the air temp was below freezing. The batteries were 6 years old, so I decided to replace them next visit. Later that day after temps warmed up a bit, the gen started and ran fine for about an hour. Today, I...

I'll take one.

£24.00 each plus £26.00 shipping. Looks like you could get a pair today shipped to the USA for about $85 based on the current exchange rate.

Here's a possible prefab option. I haven't tried this personally, and it seems expensive, but the dimensions seem fairly close: https://www.auroragenerators.com/product-page/50-gallon-sub-base-fuel-tank

When replacing the small return line, it can be a bit of a struggle to get the hose onto the plastic tees above the injectors. I've found that adding 1 drop of diesel in the end of the hose helps lubricate and makes it easier to push the hose on.

Any chance the starter is hanging up and becomes a load? What happens if you remove the starter and try to pull start it?

Is your 802 sitting on the ground or mounted on a trailer, etc? I had an 802 that shook like crazy when it was on a 803-sized dolly made of 2x6's. The wood had too much flex to it. It got much better when I put it on a concrete floor. Later I mounted it on a small trailer and between the tires...