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You should have started another thread rather than resurrecting a 7 year old thread. Also this would be better served on the communication thread so I am going to move it.

He has not confirmed that he has a schematic which of course would be the first step.

The next step is to do a compression check on all the cylinders. Some questions Do you have positive fuel pressure when you open the water drain valve while running? How bad is the fuel contamination, how much over full is the crankcase and is it getting worse fast? Have you checked the fuel...

Three times, he loved being a transport pilot as there was a large variety in missions, he was also somewhat of a black marketeer and being a transport pilot made that possible, probably why he became a PX officer after the war. :ROFLMAO:

It was a gorgeous in S TX today, definitely a chamber of commerce day!! Mid 80s in the afternoon and just a wisp of clouds in the sky. So I jogged down to Pockport TX where they were having a small air show with Stearman rides. They had 3 Stearman, a P51, a couple T6 Texans, a couple planes that...

I second an aggressive flush, rather than the heater core I would be concerned the passages in the heads possibly being restricted. EDIT or the block filled with rust, I might even be tempted to pull any accessible freeze plugs after flushing to have a look.

Do you have the schematics? If not what is your serial number?

I would not mess with it until I bled the brakes and had a good solid pedal.

Yes that is the brake WARNING light "trigger" if you unplug it and the warning light stays on the parking brake switch is likely closed. It "flips" because when you step on the brakes the equalizer is moving to try and balance the brakes which probably in need of bleeding at least. Those brake...

When the system is in balance that switch should be open

Sad we can't get them like that:(

Be careful in the mean time as the intake manifold is open to ingesting crap through the hose where the CDR valve was removed, one little piece of crud and you will be getting another engine.

He is just asking for a reference to a mechanic, we by nature just want to jump in and help :eek:

You have of course changed the fuel filter, checked to make sure you have positive pressure at the fuel filter water drain and it has fresh fuel yes?? And yes give the model number and the history of the truck (as you know it)

Welcome to the SS forums!!

The box should not depend on it being grounded to the body, since that was the only time you re-seated those connectors if it were me I would re-visit them again, looking closely at them and use some DeoxIT on them.

Welcome to the SS forums!! There is little repair info for the EESS boxes as there are so many different ones and they were never meant to be repaired. The burned component is almost never the actual problem so intensive troubleshooting skills are required

Had you re-seated the inside and outside plugs on the EESS box before?

You should be able to ohm the brush leads to make sure you have a viable field, not sure what it would ohm at but it should not be open or zero ohms. If you have the manual you should be able to troubleshoot just about any issue with a VOM

My deal of the week is a NOS 10.5K Mile Marker hydraulic winch. It used to be they sold a kit with a valve etc, now they sell the valve kit separately because of the different applications, this is complete as sold minus the control pendant. I need to find the "adapters" to separate the valve...