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I am going to see if this takes off.

You might want to pop the top off the IP and have a look, those are not good indications that it will be OK, it requires a FIVE point security Torx bit.

They have made a ship load of different shocks over the years, one would think there is a spread sheet somewhere with all the different dimensions. Saying that I have never looked for one.. :)

Actually that is a shock not a strut. It sounds like you need to find a longer shock. Be very careful, especially with heat around the shock as it can build excessive pressure and blow up!

I think many just remove the cat and test drive without it. Generally speaking a by-pass pipe is illegal.

The CDR relieves the pressure built up in the crank case so yes there would be some oil/oil vapor passed through the valve. There may not be any blow-by at idle but you can be assured there is some under load. As long as it is not using/burning oil it is a non issue. Curious where did you tap...

Sorry I thought you had a 200A. Yes the 568 is the exciter wire, 568 and 5A the output wire are connected to the same place in the start box, both are switched.

That would be a good enough reading, but heat failure would not show up when cold and simple resistance reading are only a marginal way to test a device. 0.3 ohms is "close enough" Good luck with your project!!!

The only component I can think of that would possibly fail due to under hood heat would be the delay module, it is the only component with semi conductors inside in that system. Also you have eliminated the cadillac valve due to your bypass switch. Did you put the bypass switch in the thermal...

Wire 2A is supposed to be AC to tell the startbox the engine is running and for use with a tach, it is attached to terminal marked AC The ign or sometimes marked sense terminal on the regulator is connected to wire 5A and should have battery voltage on it when the run switch is on. 2A and 5A are...

Did you make sure you had exciter voltage to the IGN terminal?? Did you have any issues with the windshield wipers while driving in the rain?

You may want to look into the fact that motor oil has a shelf life. It is generally considered that under ideal storage conditions conventional oil has a 5 year shelf life, a full synthetic 7 years or so. I hope for all the best for you and your family, you have allot going on!!!!

Actually they use woodruff keys, it just looks like it got loose and beat itself up. https://real4wd.com/product/key-woodruff-woodruff-15/

All turbos have radial play, some as much as .040" that feels like a ton to your fingers, they ride on a thick film of oil, most should have very little axial play.

I have seen oily residue in the intake of virtually every turbo diesel I have ever worked on.

I locked the other thread as there were double posting on your boost issues.

Yep. Can you see the defect or exactly where the leak is?

IIRC that TM is only an electrical TM not a vehicle specific TM

If you are talking about where the flex pipe joins the flange that bolts to the manifold or the turbo I have seen a ton of them in the civy world that were brazed.

Here you go