Search results

Have you actually confirmed the temp gauge is accurate? they are notoriously inaccurate.

Deleted, I think we have hijacked this thread enough.

I have not seen any branding on their tactical versions, only the rear support vehicles. Again I could be wrong.

Do not fill the system while running, that is a good way to lose a hand or some fingers. Do you have to add any fluid or does it return to full when it cools.

Yes. The military is not big on allowing branding on front line vehicles, I suspect as the HMMWV started to develop into a front line vehicle they dropped the logo, somewhere around 1990 or so. But I could be wrong about the reason.

One is inst. feed (switched24V) one is inst. ground, if the last one is 2D then I would say that was for a tachometer, if it was 20 then that would be for a blackout light and would not make much sense. where is it located?

That would not work if you have a 4 speed or had a dual voltage system and wanted to tap off some 12V for accessories, both of these require 12V batteires.

Maybe this will help. This list is pretty accurate although there could be exceptions.

Welcome to the SS forums!

Maybe 4 of them:eek:

If you are talking about the center mount turbo as is installed in a HMMWV and the van applications then the answer is no. The NA blocks (6.2 OR 6.5L) are not machined for the turbo oil feed, return and mount, the intake manifold bolt holes on NA heads do not have the correct angle for the turbo...

Limiting your personal information wherever you can is not a bad idea.

Welcome to the SS forums!!

"all gears and T/C positions were functional, and it drove fine" You mean you started and drove the truck before checking/changing all the fluids and filters :eek:

It is too bad you do not have an A2 with a 4 speed to start with, it would be less work to just couple up the gasser to the HMMWV transmission, you could still do it with the 3 speed and that gasser would not mind running the higher RPMs. You would still need a stand alone harness and the...

If that amp was designed to go in a vehicle then it should be good to around 15V, in modern automotive alternators it is common to see 14.2 -14.5V so them saying it requires a constant 12V is also wrong.

If you do not have a dual voltage alt. then if you draw off of the rear battery you will unbalance the charging system and the batteries will not last nearly as long as one will be under charged and one will be over charged, the larger the 12V load the faster the batteries die. With the dual...

If you have a M998 then you already have the lowest ratio diffs at 2.56, the A2 has 2.73 and the ECV has 2.73, there are no lower ratio gear available then the 2.56, since you have a 3 speed you could install a 4 speed OD trans (4L80E)

Here is the build thread for the Dmax, as I stumbled through it, it was however a big time game changer and worth the 7 months I took to do it (I had a regular job then) I also have a fully equipped shop. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/how-not-to-install-a-duramax-in-a-m998.199340/

Oh yes I forgot about instrumentation, the stock stuff sucks, the Dmax conversion I did was an LMM, I re-wired the entire truck and installed all stepper gauges, on the one I am starting now (LBZ) I am going to use the original inst. cluster out of the donor truck as it unlike the LMM does not...