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You've got it! The rear sensor came about for diag with the 6.2L which did not have a crank sensor so that continued until the center mount turbo made it impossible.

Now TOBASH, he has the right to find the answers he is looking for. As for me I am absolutely and certifiably crazy and I would not haul a single HMMWV any distance. (I did haul my JD350 dozer 2 miles a few months ago on my 7500LB lowboy trailer behind the ol ladies F150 but that is different...

Did you remove all of them?

I am leaning towards just keeping the tire and getting another one when they become available again to replace the last one I damaged, I am concerned that Simple tire does not show any stock on these and I may not be able to get a replacement, the tire is running smooth so I may just put it as...

Welcome to the SS forums!!

How many shims did you have in the rear top brackets and how many did you remove? I was looking at a M1097R1 I have in the shop and it has three shims under each upper bracket, one shim under each bracket looks fairly easy to remove as they would drop down and two that would need to be brought...

Just make sure you have a good ground to the bolt going through the firewall and inspect the wiring behind the inst panel, I think you said you ran a #6 to that stud which is good..

Here is the other half of the M1123 schematic. Be sure to reread my posts above as I made some edits

ALSO the frame has no ground, the engine is isolated by its mounts and so is the body, this is why if the starter drops off its mounts (yes it happens) and the pos. terminal on the starter contacts the frame all that current goes through things that are providing unintentional grounds to the...

I would certainly pull the inst. panel and look to see if it was a short inside that caused the ground wire #3C to fry which is pretty likely unless you had/have a 400A alt in which case it could be the harness that passes behind the alt. EDIT::: it would be more correct to call the ground...

The engine and drivetrain is grounded through a 1/0 ga cable to the battery box, the body harness ground is provided by wire #3A that is bolted to the engine block. EDIT, the EESS is getting its ground through wire #57B which is part of the body harness. What is labeled as a "body ground" is...

I am extremely sorry, I meant YJ arms not TJ arms, I do suffer from CRS. but that is no excuse. I sincerely hope I did not cost you too much money :( I have corrected the post. Again I apologize to anyone that I caused grief....

Welcome to the SS forums, you will find allot of people here to help. The first thing I would do is unplug the molded plug connected to the brake light switch, there are two circuits there, one is two individual wires and the other is two wires through a molded plug. If that stops the issue...

Here is the entire schematic for your M1123

You got it!

Simple tire said to start the process of returning that tire for a replacement, interesting seeing they do not show any in stock, waiting on the next boat from Turkey :ROFLMAO:

Unless you evacuate the system completely "knowing" how much refrigerant the system uses means nothing. Unless you feel confident and can use a set of gauges you should have a competent shop look at it, they may not know the ins and outs of that system but they can put a set of gauges on it, all...

This is exactly the type of ground loop issue I fear with the "supplemental" harness, they grounded the entire body through a 12ga wire BTW there are two ground wires on the other side of that bolt/firewall behind the inst. panel that should be looked at

If soon the engine side it is # 3C To replace it all you would need to do is run a wire from the ground lug on the alt or any other major ground to the firewall. Most likely something heavy shorted +24V to the body and that fried the wire, the problem now is how many other wires in the harness...

Are you talking about the body ground that goes from the engine compartment through the firewall behind the inst. panel using a bolt? if so which side are you talking about.