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We call that a PCB or EESS. OK did you try it with only the inside connector removed? If everything is OK with only the inside connector removed then the problem is in your wiring/ign switch inside the truck. If it tries to crank with only the inside connector removed but does not try to crank...

What is a starter module?

The first thing you need to do is get a suitable load to test with, a 24V head light would be perfect, under normal conditions if a head light was put in line with the battery and its terminal it would not light (it may "flicker" but should not stay lit), if the starter is trying to crank it...

Welcome to the SS forums!!! If you mean by "key" you have a keyed ign. switch that is your problem.

Well the 91 M1038 did not have the bracket you are referring to, that bracket came on the ECV serial number 196901 and above. I am sorry I thought you wanted the bolts to mount the bracket :eek: The compressor that fits that bracket has no threaded holes at all is uses 3, #4 (3/8-16 X 4.25) and...

Assuming your truck serial number is 196901 and up One is a 3/8-16X2.5" bolt, goes through one of the idler pulleys One is M10-1.5 X 45 the third is a stud in the water pump, looks like part NSN 5307011787445 man. # 14071080

What you are experiencing is called torque converter shudder. It sounds like when warmed up it does not have enough pressure to keep the TC locked up and or the TC is worn out. Have you changed the fluid and filter in the trans? if not that would be the next step, with a close inspection of the...

No adjustment, you have something installed incorrectly, if not the top cover then something else in the governor linkage. Have you watched any youtube vids on the top cover?

I modified one of the rear mounts to fit on the front, but that was part of a bigger bumper/brush-guard project and have a 12K Mile-Marker hydraulic winch installed There seems to be several different options for the front but there are others that know allot more than me on that subject.

Well then you can simply ohm them out, not sure what they should read but if they are blown you will get an open (infinity) to all the terminals.

What kind of headlights are they? if they are incandescent you can ohm them out, if blown then all terminals will read to infinity and beyond :LOL:

You pierce the insulation of the wire with the voltmeter probe

Not likely, both high and low beams going out on both headlights would be extremely rare unless the voltage was way out of whack. Did you test the voltage with the lights attached?

Do you by chance have a 60A alt? if so check your battery voltage when running

If shorting S and T gets the truck cranking then as 86humv said start tracing the 74A circuit until you find the problem, if shorting S and T does not work then you have a problem with the starter and or power to the starter.

You may want to trade/sell them, you cannot get those at AutoZone and I bet they are not cheap!!

Try S and T that plug has independent wires to the positive post on the starter (T) and to the solenoid (S) If that does not work check T to ground with a volt meter, if you do not have 24V there then the starter is likely not getting any power.

If you short S and T on the STE plug you will activate the starter IF it is working and has power. That does not mean it is going to start, you still need power to the IP. If everyone that owns a HMMWV had downloaded and READ the free TMs available on this site it would have saved many folks...

When you tested the turn signal indicator lamp did you use reverse polarity? the pos goes to the lamp body and the neg goes to the contact point.