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I did find this in Niehoff docs about the N3135 "Allows single-voltage operation (28 V only). 14 V is not available as a single voltage appli- cation with this regulator. — Provides optional 28 V/14 V output only from the regulator when phase cable from alterna- tor is connected to regulator."

I think it is possible the N3135 would work in that application only without the 14V, it seems if someone had just stuck that regulator on the alt. there would not have been a cap provided to seal the unused connector, it is even chained to the connector, normally these just have plastic caps...

Looking at your picture the regulator has one of its plugs capped, I assume that alternator does not have that cable, that would be a good reference to know if somebody is fighting a 200A alt. problem! I wonder if the 3135 regulator would actually work on that alt but being only single voltage...

That crosses over to NSN 2920-01-420-9968 per the Niehoff's web site. I did also look at some of the other military only parts suppliers and it is listed as non-submersible. The correct regulator is a N3106 and it does not have a 14V tap :( Searching for the NSN and all the regular suspects are...

Interesting, I have never seen a "non dual voltage gen" with an external regulator on a HMMWV, there is a 100A that uses the same regulator and is dual voltage. The numbers you list do not come up in any search except for this thread.

OK but you need to confirm that 24V is getting to the light sockets on the correct terminals, you also need to confirm the ground lead to the light sockets as well, there has been allot of issues with the cheap LED headlights, some have to go through several sets to get some that work.

I am not sure what you mean I was talking about the neg lead of the meter when he is looking at the dimmer switch.

I never had an issue, it does reduce the rear departure angle a little bit but does not reduce the overall ground clearance of the vehicle. It is very well protected so if you did scrape it off road it would not likely be a problem.

Are you doing this with the engine not running, if so try it with the engine running and the alt charging. You may also have a grounding issue with the rear lights, pull the lens and see if the running light filament tries to glow/light when the turn signal is flashing

It should be clear, the pos terminal is larger than the neg terminal so the connectors should give you a clue but as far as practical application it does not matter

One of the yellow wires is for 12V transmission (TCM) feed the other goes to the 14V tap on the voltage regulator to balance the voltage on the two batteries 1 is neg, 4 is 24V positive. 3 is the cable that goes between the two batteries. What batteries are you going to use? There also should be...

Replacing all the frame mounts is a CONSIDERABLE amount of work with blood letting and money but that is certainly an option, I did a 2" lift for under $100, I used this guys pucks, https://www.mikellisbodylifts.com/ You will need to drop the fuel tank the same amount as your lift, I used a...

This is what that mount looks like in place.

Welcome to the SS forums. There is a winch mount made especially for the rear and many winches can be mounted in it. You can do an internet search for 5340-01-485-5962, here is the cheapest one I found with a quick search, the fairlead is right below the bumper...

To farther explain, the reason I would use a three terminal flasher where one lead was ground is because they do not depend on the load at all to operate, they get power on X and the circuit is powered through the ground (usually pin E) independently of the load. I will post an example Here is...

I was always thinking I would try one of the three terminal flashers where one was ground, but that one should work, curious if you leave the flasher unplugged do the lamps lite when you switch the turn signal on right or left? Also you hooked X to 325B (terminal B) and the load to 325A...

You ground the negative lead to the engine or other good ground

I just said in the above post that 17 was high and 18 was low

I would leave the wires attached and use the meter lead to pierce the wire insulation, 16 is feed (should be 24V no matter what the switch position is in (with the light switch in service drive ) 17 is high beam and 18 is low beam.

You have nothing there, the meter is only reading mV so the 130 = .13V What I would do at this point is make sure you have good voltage going in and out of the dimmer switch.