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I have debated myself about putting one of those lights in my M715 , M35’s and M1009’s for years now. Having a smart phone almost always in hand the past decade or so had pretty much pushed the light out of my mind as a need. However, your install makes me want to go do it. I like it.

Your knowledge of aluminum 2 core compared to stock 4 core in post #5 is good to read. I have a stock radiator that I will try and measure later this evening. I can’t right now. I have vehicles on both sides of the copper-aluminum debate. I will let others keep arguing that but state I think...

Dang. Beat me by 7 minutes and with pictures. Don’t watch football and try posting at the same time. It slows you down.

Page 17-1 of the -34P Technical Manual shows the gasket which they call a Grommet nonmetallic with part number 15530620. It doesn’t show the screen you mentioned. I have 5 CUCV trucks, 14 6.2 or 6.5 engine and none of them have that screen. I don’t recall seeing it on other trucks either. I...

Preventive maintenance wise changing the glow plugs when you live some where with expected 0° nights is a pretty wise choice every 2 years. As pointed out Doug it sure beats doing it on a cold dark rainy night. The rest of us though can normally get 5-10 years or more out of a set of 60G glow...

Mechanical lift pump psi testing. I have a gauge on my M715. Between the metal hard line above the passenger valve cover and the fuel filter. It bounces between 5-8 psi with the engine running. But, never below 4. I just walked out and looked at the mechanical gauge and it reads 5 psi and I...

The “Normal oily sludge in the middle” is not normal. The valley should be dry. I don’t have a center mount turbo so I will let others comment.

Those return hose leaks are sneaky. Often I will get a smell of diesel when walking by the truck when it is not running. Then I can look and often do not see any liquid. Starting the engine sometimes will maybe or maybe not show the spot as you have found out. A good flashlight with the engine...

Mine took massive persuasion to get back to a shape close to fitting. They were actually wadded up in the battery box and it took me a very long time to even figure out what they were when I got the truck from the VFD 23 years ago. I haven’t had them off since I painted the truck in 2006. I...

I’m impressed that not only do you have a rear light wiring cover (at least on the driver side) but that it is straight enough that you dared to remove it and got it back on again. Good job!

I am not trying to get away from the motor mount idea. That could be the problem. However, I did a lift pump replacement a few days ago. I have the Energy Suspension polyurethane mounts on that truck. Removing the supply line was not an issue getting to it or with it being near the...

Pull the check valve that the return line pushes onto. Look inside to see if it has little bitty black pieces up against the glass check ball. If it does, your IP will need to be rebuilt. Near the end of this video the glass ball and black pieces is discussed:

Fuel in the IP, fuel getting to the IP and no place for air to get introduced between the tank and the IP, right? That leaves you either need to keep cranking some more to get fuel to the injectors or you have internal issues with your Injection pump. How many seconds do you figure you have...

Can you hear the solenoid clicking as you plug and unplug the pink wire with the ignition on?

You can get fuel to the IP with an electric pump. But, the engine and pump have to be turning for the fuel to get to the injectors. An electric pump only helps so far. Then it comes down to battery guts and starter health. I replaced both fuel filter hoses and the filter on one of my trucks...

I wasn’t writing about the headlight relay set up. I have that on 3 of my trucks and think it is a worthy addition since my stock wiring hasn’t started smoking or melting. I guess you could run 24 volts through the headlight side of the relays. But, why? 12 volts through lights are available...

I second that. Don’t make a wiring nightmare truck worse by making it more complicated. I have had the Trucklite LED units in one of my trucks 5 years now with excellent light and no issues or sun fading.

As written about above the starter relay is basically above your right foot when it is on the throttle. If that is where the clicking is coming from then also follow the directions above to verify you have 24 volts going to the relay and 24 volts going away from it when the key is turned. The...

Very interesting about the Delo product change. Thanks for sharing.

There is a ground for just about everything inside the truck up above the parking brake pedal. Your roving electrical problems sure seem to fit a bad ground connection. I suggest you make sure that common ground is clean, tight and all the wires plugging into it are securely plugged in.