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I'd like a chance to win some batteries!

Looks like that is who I bought mine from, so he must have had a bunch of them! I bought a handful, not just 1 package of 2, and he combined the shipping. As far as RCT is concerned, I dealt with them about a decade ago to get a remote brake fluid reservoir for my deuce. They were the cheapest...

I had a similar experience with the aftermarket version being cheap Chinese junk that wouldn't fit. I searched the part number on ebay and found a guy that was selling NOS parts and they worked fine. They cost more but they fit. Not sure if there are still any of those available, I bought mine...

I did both. Seemed to me like the metal was there for a reason - to keep the wood from getting wet every time the truck got driven in the rain. I spot welded in a 14 ga sheet similar to how the original was held in, then replaced the oak I took out with two layers of marine grade plywood to...

I really like the look of those mirror lights. Are they a universal part or are they something specific to the cascadia mirrors? Do you have a link to where you sourced them?

Congrats on confirming that you have the highly desirable dual circuit brakes! I have never worked on a short air pack but there is a stickied thread that shows how to rebuild one. https://steelsoldiers.com/threads/new-style-short-airpack-teardown-repair-with-photos.111972/ I rebuilt my long...

Judging from the 1988 date you mentioned, the lower position of the heater air intake vent, and the flapper on the exhaust stack, it sounds like you have one of the later trucks that has the dual circuit brakes. I have no working knowledge of those other than that they have a split circuit...

I did some measuring of the plug on one of the Napa 3472 filters and it came out to 3/8-28, straight threads (not tapered). That is 1/8-BSPP. The drain petcock I removed from the original filter is 1/8 NPT. So I ordered a 1/8-BSPP male to 1/8 NPT female adapter and hooked up the original drain...

Any valve that has touched a piston will likely fail eventually. If they get the slightest bend, each time they open and close it puts them through a loading cycle and they fail in fatigue where the stem blends into the head. I would recommend replacing all the valve collets and retainers (plus...

I had the exact same issue with mine. The seal retainer stopped about 1/16" shy of where it needed to be. From what I remember, there is some area around the outer diameter where the axle shaft can't contact anyway. Mine has a few dings in there from installation on one side. Nothing ever...

The only other thing I can think of in that area that has relative motion with wheel rotation and could cause heat build up (beyond the brakes and the wheel bearings like you mentioned) is the fit of the axle shaft inside the spindle. I would have expected that to show up as heat damage to the...

If the front axle isn't spinning, none of the places where the grease or gear oil are coming from are still moving, so they are no longer a limiting factor for how far you can go. As long as the hubs stay cool, you can drive on it essentially indefinitely. Some folks put that job off for years...

If you have an air shift transfer case and you remove the drive flanges, you don't technically need to remove the driveshaft. It shouldn't spin the axle. But if the driveshaft is out, you KNOW it's not spinning. If you have a sprag transfer case then the driveshaft has to come out to keep the...

That definitely looks like failed inner axle seals and failed boots to me. It's very possible that the bearings are still greased and fine since they are on the other side of the knuckle. Unless you're set on having it towed from here I would definitely pull the drive shaft and the drive flanges...

Are the hubs hot? Sounds like you've had the inner axle seals fail. If you remove the drive flanges and the front drive shaft you could keep going without the front axle spinning.

My knowledge is a bit dated but before all the current price increases it was roughly double the cost of petroleum based diesel. It is made from the same feed stocks as biodiesel but doesn't have the hygroscopic tendencies of the biodiesel. It's a good fuel, but it's not cheap.

21208 Laurel Road Laurel, IN 47024

Maybe try putting your known good light from the passenger side on the drivers side this time and put the new bulb on the passenger side? If it blows the drivers side again, the problem is in the truck. If it blows the new bulb that you put on the passenger side, you just got a bad batch of bulbs.

Yep, things like that are exactly why we all need to know exactly what the written rules are where we live so we can separate what the rules truly are from what zoning officials wish they were. I only read a few sections of the Fairfield code, not anything from the state of Ohio. As a side...

As mentioned earlier, zoning officials are almost always on a power trip, and see no difference between getting you to comply with the ordinances as written and with their wishes that go a step further. The devil is in the details and you need to be 100% clear on what is and is not in those...