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I did store it with switch in "normal" so the wife could start it while I was away. Other than that all I did was add the MOV per the instructions on this site.

Power is out and finally have a chance to prove the purchases to the 1st lady but no go. I can only get power at the 10A receptacles. I am probably not thinking clear so let me know what I am missing.

Filling atvs and zero turns is a blast! The little tab that is supposed to press against the tank to force the valve open constantly slips, then the twist lock resets and you have to lower the can and start all over. Then there is no vent so it gurgles and takes about 20 mins to empty a 5 gallon...

Makes me angry to see it. I can't think of anything more stressful than dealing with those spouts. The cause of more fuel exposed the the ground and atmosphere than anything or maybe even everything else combined. On the flip side they are great for the oil companies profits because you only get...

Don't know how you pulled that off unless you tried multiple colors, but I thank you!

Thanks. I posted about this awhile back and never got a solid answer. Let me know if you find a good fair priced source for aerosol cans.

If you are on the edge of having enough power for hot water, you could consider a heatpump hot water heater like the Geospring. You may be able to get a tax rebate to reduce cost. They run on 600w, although they do require more at cold startup since the control board fires the backup electric...

What are the odds the block would be cracked?

I think the 803 consumes as much fuel at 1/2 load as the 802 at full load, so no difference if you are maxing out the 802 regularly.

That is why I now have an enclosed cab. Plus, I can't sprint like when I was 20 anymore, and plowing snow in a T-shirt and jeans is nice too!

@Hard Head - I would like to see a thread on that. My 803 is so quite I could not spend money on making it any quiter. In regards to the ice and snow accumulation, was that with it running or stored? I am curious if they run warm enough to melt off snow and ice during operation? I keep mine...

I think the key is switching to synthetic AFTER it is broken in. For the cost of conventional 15/40, I still feel more comfortable changing oil yearly to remove acids. You never know when you may need to run it for 200+ hrs in an emergency and I want it to be ready. Every diesel I own calls for...

I think most people run the 15/40 diesel once they are broken in. I would change oil yearly at a minimum regardless of number of hours put on it. In other words if you only put 2 hours on it, you should still change it.

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Mine is on the trailer as well. I started a thread recently which shows it backed beside the back of the house for Winter. I am a little north of Frederick, so about an hour west of you.

Blower and auger. It is wood pellet fuel or rather 50% pellet and 50% corn, as is the case currently. And my hot water heater is a Geospring heatpump model which uses 600w to run. That leaves plenty of reserve for my 803A.

I would also turn off the outside units, but I dont really worry about it because my emergency heat is a wood fueled stove which draws <200w. My first backup to that is propane and third is the heatpump.

The 9.6kw would be resitive load for the inside emergency heat strip. The generator would power it and provide another 5k watts max. I think they load bank right around 12kw at 100% and 15kw at 125%. I ran 4AWG from my generator to the distribution panel.

With the way you are trying to do it, I think you would have to drive a ground for the neighbors house which could cause a double ground at your house. Why not just feed your house and run extension cords from there?

My Yanmar was brand new and the shaking from the single cylinder loosened the exhaust and broke off the head studs within 10 hours of running. I repaired it and ran one more outage (10 hrs), and then sold it. One time it just shut off and I never figured out why. And it was loud, very loud.