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Will do once i get back to the yard tommorow.

Yes I completely understand and will double check. 10 wires has been the norm for all 804ab and larger units from that series. I assumed it was the same for the ammps series but you know what they say about assumptions. Will report back.

I just got 2 of these units in and its the first time i have seen one. I am impressed with the room available on these to perform repairs or even disassemble. One of the units has 11k hours on it and zero blowby. One thing I noticed was the genhead looks really similar to the 803a but its too...

I was able to order the hose from cummins dealer. If you still have the unit, i might need some parts. Thanks

im looking for a radiator hose if you still have this unit for parts. Im pretty sure its part number 04-20796 in the manual. Thanks

Ok, finally got it off. I realized the rear main bearing looks banged up and id like to replace it and the o-rings in the front. Is there a rebuild kit?

Im on the 3rd day of playing with that clutch. I look like heroin addict with all the bruises in my arm.

Ok, I managed to align the holes and see the allen heads. Tried my best to get them lose by hand but would not budge. Im going to buy a small mechanics hammer drill and try again tommorow. Btw, are the screws left hand thread?

Gonna play with it it tommorow and see if I can pull it off. Thanks for the help, will report back.

The alternative, I believe, is to remove the allen screws and take off the clutch. I tried to fit the allen wrench though the big holes but cant find the screws. They are 5/16 allen if I recall the other post i read. I have never removed one on a humvee but do happen to have another spare...

I am not trying to remove the clutch per se. The nut is where the line from the cadillac valve connects. I believe it has a washer with a detent in the slot as per the manual. If I remove the nut, the bulb can be pulled out exposing the piston and seals that usually leak. I removed the hose and...

My 2 cents. I had a similar issue not long ago where the fan clutch would not engage. All the electronics in the cooling systems tested great. In the end it was a bad hose from the cadillac valve to the fan clutch. They had swapped the hose and did not use a hydraulic replacement. This caused...

Howdy, my A2 was plundered and came with an old v belt fan that caused overheating. I am currently replacing the fan the hard way and am unable to remove the fan clutch which works properly I might add. The 1/2 nut keeps on spinning even when I apply the 90 psi to the line to engage the...

Great install video Colt!

Yes, clean contacts on all three. Should clear your issue. If not look at the relay in the conyrol panel.

Specifically F1 and F2. Mine had a snapped terminal that looked good till you wiggled it.

I must disagree here. I used to turn the can and what would often happen is the O ring slipped out of the groove and got pinched thus causing a leak. What works for me is using a little axle grease to keep the O ring squarley in place and tighten the bolt wihile holding the cup in place. Most...

Sometimes cleaning the terminals connected to the transformer located above the connection box helps with these issues and avoids false readings. I do it to all units I refurb and its all but eliminated under/over volt errors.

Maybe these guys can help you out for the modest price of a few grand. 😬

I recall something similar happed to me a few years back. Check F1, F2 excitation wires and make sure they are screwed in tight. My had a broken terminal.