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Here is what you are working with, the T-138 transfer case. The red circled rod is what has to move in and out to shift. It does not turn. There is a small square access cover which you might be able to remove and send in an inspection camera, I have never done this.

Definitely need to verify that the xfer hi low range shift rod is moving from detent to detent and it’s not a linkage issue. Almost nothing can be repaired inside the xfer from the outside and it’s no fun to pull it and split it open. Good luck.

Did you adjust the new shoes? I can see this happening if all the cylinders have to retract a huge distance.

Did the jack pop up under the truck and contact the starter motor causing the fireworks?

Yes see TM-9-2320-211-10 in the M39 series folder. I might warn you, as you start using this crane, you must follow the load chart to the letter, the hoist and boom hydraulics will lift far more than the boom and superstructure can handle.

Bummer. Those plates will be very difficult to find. You will need to find someone parting one of these out. Try Memphis Equipment and Red River Parts. The TM for this truck should be in the TM section on this site and there will be pictures of the plates and operation instructions.

Most value for those items is to leave them in place and sell the truck to someone who wants a M1031. Then use the proceeds to buy the M1008 you want.

By ring out I mean to check that each wire in the harness has continuity from one end to the other. No fraying or bare spots.

I would ring out the harness between the controller and the 4L80E. Sounds like you got an intermittent connection.

They are correct, those changes happened in 1954 but not on Jan 1. Data plate is 100% original Willys.

Do you have both 12 and 24 volts present at the power points at the PDP? Did this truck just develop this issue or did you get it this way from surplus?

Is there any evidence that the numbers in both plates were stamped by someone other than Willys Motors? If not you are good to go. The hinged grille and thumbscrew battery box changed in ‘54.

That tty was the mainstay of communications during the entire cold war period, like 1950s until the 1970s. In the US they were called TT-98. Every Ratt Rig (radio teletype) had two of them in a shelter on the back of 3/4, 5/4, or 2 1/2 ton trucks. Nice find!

I would start with overhauling the brake booster.

Suggest you bring the part to a heavy duty truck parts house, they should have one in stock.

The problem with that approach is that the new paints will be just that, new. No fading. The computer match will match the existing fading.

Bring a sample of each color you wish to match to Sherwin Williams and have them match it with the computer color match scanner. 1 quart of Superpaint in flat should get you going for both shades. Incredible Jeep you have there, like 20 years of markings showing through.

My battery box is wired up just like yours. The huge cables are 24 volt plus and minus, and the little 6 ga ? wire is 12 volt. You can omit connecting the slave receptacle if you don't have a use for it. Use the same stud top 31s you have now. The TM will tell you to use 4 ea 12 volt...

At 55 mph yes unfortunately. ECO hubs is the solution to this.

Lot of these auction HMMWVs have been sitting for many years. Ya might have to get a lil rough with the lever. As in mule kick it.