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In my opinion, some oil in fuel is better for the older sets anyway as newer diesel is less lubricative than the current fuel. I considered doing it with my 004, the only reason I didn't is lack of time.
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You really should create a new thread for it, but anyway it's probably a seal between the injection pump and engine. If you dont have the skills for it any diesel shop should be able to do it
Frequency too.
There are 3 ways to change the speed of an electric motor. Change the number of poles (think old mechanical fan switches)
Alter voltage (which also alters current so motor damaging)
Alter Frequency
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That's just the condenser fan. The compressor is the more significant thing to look at. There should be a sticker on the outside of the unit with the overall assembly rating
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Breakers are typically thermomagnetic meaning that need a thermal event (overload) or magnetic event(sudden short) either way they react to current. The onboard breaker of the generator is a CT breaker it reads magnetic induction. Still current based. So unless you exceeded the current setting...
Thicker oil can work but it's a bandaid at best. Adding zinc Won't do much either. If I had to make a suggestion it would be to find a single weight oil and add a stabilizer like Lucas.
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Current transducer (or transformer) it's how the instrumentation measure current. The number of wraps changes the current multiple. Look for a block with wire wrapped through a hole
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Dry contact relays, coil is sourced from controller and Contacts from generator battery. Most are just paralleled, contactor open (breaker trip) is normally closed so I had to put that one in series.
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I did this on a 004 and in the simplest of terms I am emulating switch flips. Specifically the stop/run/start and circuit breaker. (Run, start, close, and not open)
Id imagine as long as you aren't manipulating the battle short circuit the safeties will still work (mine do).
In addition to...
You absolutely should have the set grounded. In your case if you aren't switching the neutral, (which is most cases) leave the generator neutral-ground bond open and tie the generator chassis to the ground bar in your panel ( should be 4 wire. L1 L3 L0(neutral) and ground. As for premature...
My pool does have a hot tub. It's essential to offset the geothermal ballast created by the magnetic Flux depending on the geosynchronous orbit of the nearest satellite.
It all depends on what you really want. I have a fully automatic standby unit for about 2500.
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Depends on deal hunting. Most of my control components were sourced on fleabay. New from manufacturer, it was close to 5k in equipment, but since I'm using the older generation of devices I was able to get all the stuff for about 1000. Also keep in mind that controls my generator, fault...