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where are you measuring?

If you think a proper interlock is expensive, You haven't considered the life of someone. Using lockout is known as an administrative control. These are usually avoided because they are easy to defeat. always design based on the lowest common idiot.

What i have read calls to blend it with diesel some people do full wmo with some gasoline to thin and get it closer to the flammability of diesel

Ive been toying with WMO for fuel. Might have to pick your brain a bit

I avoid the 0dark30 wakeup call, I used my powers as an electrician and automated the whole thing.

I had one recently too, Annoying thing it was caused by a tree limb, That I called in to duke as a hazard, That they looked at and said it wasnt.. But yes they are getting too expensive to run, So far I only used what I had on hand, dreading having to refill my cans.

At this time I would also like to point out that when you disconnect this bond leave the generator hooked up. running it disconnected from the house and the bond disconnected will give you weird voltages (floating neutral). Just something to keep in mind.

No ground rod to the frame. While it can be done without adversely impacting the way the ground is meant to work its nest to not alter your house grounding. White wire to L0 Green/bare wire to chassis Line 1 to L1 line 2 to L3 The bond is usually wired off of L0 to the chassis.

If it were me and rigging needed to be done, I would use a few wraps of exhaust pipe wrap.

Start by getting into the manuals (TM tap at the top of the page) When you hold the switch to start, you are bypassing the voltage regulator (this is the flash circuit, its what gets the head going to excite the regulator) You might have a bad AVR but that requires testing to confirm.

The gauges on these are more or less a guideline. Use a known good meter.

Thats a JIC fitting If it matches other sets it should be 1/2"-20 thread and 37 degree -5 an fitting

Ready the parts cannon

I cant see why you couldnt.

Sporting a guess here, Its likely P59E16 for the starter burnout mod.

No when its in start the regulator is being bypassed for the flash. The avr takes over when not in start

Not sure on the inverter sets, but traditionally an unbalanced voltage is a neutral bond issue (neutral tied to ground) or lack thereof.

OEM looks like this

btw the repair in the control cube warrants a smack with a blunt object. atleast wrap it in tape. *internal electrician is screaming*

yea this looks modified. if I had to guess either the regulator is damaged or insufficiently sized and is not able to maintain the field.