Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
Looks like a re-occurring thread topic lately, but I'm having starting problems. I charged my batteries and both read 12.6V, but when I go to start the starter makes the clicking noise. I'd say a month ago I could at least get it to engage and turn the engine over, but wouldn't start. I'm...
I noticed the other day that when I was out driving with shorts on the heat off the transmission hump was almost burning my calf. I touched the floor and almost burned my hand. I'm not getting any overheating idiot light and all my fluids are topped off and don't look like any of them are...
I've replaced 2 speedometer cables on my truck, and soon to be a third. They keep getting blown up at the connection with the transmission. Any idea on what may be causing this?
This past weekend I hooked up a 12V winch to just the front battery. I left the truck running and after pulling one small shrub out of the ground, the winch stopped winding. I turn the truck off and unplugged the winch wondering if something had gone wrong with it. Then I went to restart the...
Only when the truck is hot, I'll get a puddle of coolant dripping off the bellhousing. I can't tell where it's coming from, so I'd like some suggestions on where to look. This engine has less than 2000 miles on a top end rebuild with new head gaskets so I'm grasping at straws here.
I've had trouble starting my 1008 the last few times and I'm trying to figure out what's going on. Today I tested both batteries after it wouldn't start and the back battery was 12.5 and the front 11.9. The way these batteries are set up, shouldn't they both read the same? Also, thinking...
I had to send my truck to the shop when the transmission decided not to go into drive/reverse. They dropped the pan and and found out pretty quickly with all the metal that I needed a rebuild. I also had them do a few other small fixes that I didn't want to deal with myself and that completely...
I took the M1008 out for the first time in a few months and noticed a decent puddle under the transmission. Actually, it was under the skid plate under the transfer case, but I think that's just where it was collecting. I put a pint of fluid in and drove it out the garage and things were OK...
I noticed the other day when I turned my lights on that I wasn't getting any instrument lights. I rarely drive this truck at dark so it's not been a big deal, but I would like to know how to go about trouble shooting this. Same goes with my volt meter. It's never worked and I assume I'll have...
I've been looking into this a little bit and would like to know what you do once you pull the axle out of the U-joint container. Do you just wire the axle up under the truck, or do you pull it from the back of the transfer case? Do you cover the U-joint caps at all?
A few weeks ago now I had to get pulled out of a bit of deep water. Deep enough that water was definetly in the engine compartment, but not deep enough that it got to the intake and flooded me out. As soon as I was back on dry land, my power steering was completely gone. I pulled over, left...
I'm in the process of rebuilding my axle and when I pulled the locking hub off one side, it came out pre-dissembled. The problem is that I can't figure out how to get it back together. Can anyone suggest and tips or tricks? Or is this one junk at this point?
Got into a bit of fun over the weekend. Kept the air intake above water so she kept on running and never swamped out. Although with the fan running, I'm sure it swallowed enough. Not to mention the water over the bench seat and some wet pants.
First question, anything I should check to make...
How is this thing attached to the floorboard? I've used a can of PB Blaster and a cheater bar on my breaker bar and I still can barely get this thing to budge.
Let me start with saying I just got my truck back from having the engine replaced and it runs fantastic. I can't believe the power it has now. However, when I got it back the shop said they flushed the radiator and a bunch of junk came out. Well that junk was plugging the holes just fine...
I decided to dive into my replacement engine and give it new head gaskets while I'm checking things out. I got to the point where I removed the heads, but a little "debris" from the old gasket flaked into the cylinders, the coolant ports, and the top open area that I assume goes to the oil pan...
I'm getting reading to pull my bad engine and replace it with a used one I picked up and checked out. I was reading TM 9-2320-289-34 and in a couple of locations it mentions making sure to mark the flywheel to torque converter location. Seeing as I'm using a replacement engine, how do I know...
My M1008 has a bad cylinder and I need a replacement. I'm not looking to upgrade or rebuild at the moment, but I do want to get my truck up and running again sooner than later.
My question is, what should I look for in a used engine? What red flags in particular?
I don't have my M1008 nearby, so I can't measure myself. But my buddy did give me a lead on a couple of new Chevy squarebody's that were dropped off at a junkyard. So I'll be on my way out there to see if I can snag a new bench seat, seat belt, and dashpad.
Does anyone know the bolt size of...
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!