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Glow plug tip should be non-magnetic. A clean vacuum (so you can see if you caught it) on the injector hole should be your best bet. Bring the piston near TDC. You may need to pull a valve cover and jack a valve open to get enough airflow to pull it out.
I am putting a turbo on my truck. I went to add 1/4 turn to the fuel screw on the pump and couldn't, it was maxed out. The truck ran at sea level with minimal smoke at max stroke. I checked another pump I had run on the engine and was only to add 1/8th. I think 1/4 over stock is essentially max...
Ideally you want short+fine injectors 1988+ with lines from a 1988-1993 engine. 6.2 or 6.5 doesn't matter. I think any year 1988+ HMMWV lines will work. There are small differences between center mount and side mount/NA lines but for side mount applications I think any line will work.
The 6.2...
It doesn't require a full hydraulic lock and the diesel combustion chamber is certainly much smaller than that. Using the compression release may let the engine come up to a sufficient speed to bend a rod once the exhaust valve closes.
Look at the diaphragm on your master cylinder lid. If it's soft and swollen you've got the stew.
If the system is contaminated it goes after the rubber stuff. Use compressed air to blow out the hard lines and then renew the rubber components. Hoses, masters, and rear wheel cylinders are cheap...
Here is an example of a jerk pump injection pump. Fuel enters through right port and leaves out top to injector. You can see that while the plunger is down, the injector pressurized by the lift pump. The left port is the spill port and ends injection. The engine stops when the slot is aligned...
In once case on a much larger engine we blew a fuel injector through a valve cover. The tip had broken on the injector and the fuel tank was above the engine. This allowed the cylinder to fill while the engine was not running and then hydraulic locked during the next start.
When diesel engines...
The K&N style filter is the absolute worst you can put on a dirtbike. You need oiled foam.
Oil isn't particularly important. This is a 30 horsepower machine. It will tolerate anything. Diesel engine oils have soot dispersants. That's all you need.
If the brakes still have DOT 5 and weren't...
JB weld can work. Drain the coolant, end drill the crack, V out the crack, clean clean clean, then apply. Most people will skip at least one of these steps which is why they get bad results and then blame the epoxy.
The right epoxy properly applied should be permanent. Be wary that the...
Most electrical wire is PVC or polyethylene based insulation. These tolerate all oil types. Only EPDM rubber is sensitive (SO cord). That's why I say it really doesn't matter what system you use. Use the one you can get. If you do have SO cord, coat with silicone based oils.
You will need an acid to remove corrosion. Maybe citric acid would work? It's not very strong but leaves no residue.
Personally, I would just replace the screws. The terminals and bars are all copper and you'll find them to be a-ok under the screw heads.
Afterwards, hose it down with your...
The DOT 5 thing is funny. There is zero difference between DOT 3 components and DOT5. But, if you mix the fluids it will ruin the components. When I bought my truck there was DOT 3 in the brake system and it caused the diaphragm on the master to swell in that chamber. The rear wheel cylinders...