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Also check the main cable connector to the start box next to the windshild washer reservoir. Those corrode but also have found excessive dialectic grease inside which causes poor connections. I clean them out with electric contact cleaner and slightly bend the tabs a bit to make a better...

These trucks have a nasty tendency to develop steam pockets and stagnant coolant at the back which burps from time to time causing all sorts of temperature spikes and heater issues. Our cooling balance upgrade kits fix these issues. www.paradoxbydesign.com

I would add some anti-gel as well to the fuel 👍

I have a bid to do this but want to give our SS guys one last chance. Thanks!

Make sure you dont have low engine oil! You might be sucking pan oil into the combustion chambers or pressurized oil past a head gasket. This is a REALLY bad condition that have caused some VERY serious destruction. This is the first thing I check if I cant shut off a diesel.

You might have pulled some rust through your slave cylinder and locked it up? Also your clutch fork might have locked up too.

Still looking guys. Thanks!

As it says above we need this trailer moved. It can be towed or loaded as desired as it is in perfect condition. I would love to piggy back onto an existing move to save cost. Thanks!

So we have seen the connector (under the hood to the control box) have poor continuity and cause these issues you describe. Last truck we had in the owner had used dielectric grease inside the connector (worried about water getting in when he was fording) and that caused nearly identical issues...

Well said Sir!

You care correct that your heater would see hotter temps taking coolant from the back of the heads. However it would take longer to reach that temperature and the benefit of the balancing the temps would not work correctly. In order to get the balance you need a very controlled level of flow...

https://paradoxbydesign.com/collections/cooling-upgrades/products/hmmwv-humvee-cooling-upgrade-system-v3 ;)

Be careful with those IR temp guns. They are wildly inaccurate especially on reflective metal surfaces. Hoses read right but you are reading external temperature vs internal temperature.

How is your coolant level?

Norm if your system is that bad please pull off our hoses and blow them backwards (front to back) with compressed air to make sure all that gunk did not clog things up. Sounds like your truck ran with river water or worse for a period in it's past. Anti-corrosion is a good plan for a while.

A ton of rust and corrosion hides at the back of the block under the rear block off plates (hence our cooling upgrade kits) by removing those you can push water with a hose through those and get a ton of gunk out. Just make sure you buy gaskets for those before you do this (or one of our kits...

Unfortunately these engines have a poor coolant flow to the rear of the block which causes the rear to run as much as 50 degrees hotter than the front. The cooling system overall temperature will not necessarily show this as it it looking at overall system temperature which is being regulated...

Could be blown head gaskets or cracked cylinders as ken said. A chemical head gasket tester kit can be had for little money and with a sniff of the coolant will tell if you have combustion gasses in the coolant.

When we go deep in the sticks we have all the above plus a set of three axles with tools to replace, all the belts, air compressor, good radio, emergency camping equipment, standard pioneer tool kit, hose sealer, water, diesel etc...

Without going inside the motor: Turn up the fuel a bit, if she starts blowing smoke you have gone too far, a light bit is OK (EGT monitoring i recommended) Open up the air cleaner with a tall filter and even a filter top too. More air = better A good set of headers, twin exhaust with an 'H' or...