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We changed from a soft hose to an armored and rubber coated hose about a year ago but the internal flow of the entire kit did not change. The flow of the system is internally regulated which came from a lot of R&D to get enough to create rear flow to balance the block temperatures but not too...

Water cools better than coolant. Water Wetter allows for some lubrication of your water pump seal and other seals and has some anti-corrosives in it as well. It basically lets your run strait water when you wouldn't be able too normally. As mentioned this will not give you any freeze...

For the pump style block heaters look up KATs brand. Good luck!

I live in cold country too and I generally stay away from the freeze heaters. I have just had too many fail when I was farthest from home and with the least amount of tools at hand ;) I use a recirculating water pump heater into the heater circuit, it moves coolant around and gets to...

So I think one thing I am fighting is base engine speed. The engine wants to idle at low RPM. If I manually accelerate the engine and jamb something into the throttle to hold it there, I get a green LED and I can fire up the A/C unit on blower or heat (no refrigerant) and everything is great...

I pulled the sensor which had some light debris on it mostly shavings and metal dust. I cleaned it an reset the depth. Both before and after I am getting a good speed signal.

Nope, and I could actually see the relays buzzing!

I will see what I can isolate in the A/C & D/C sides. The problem with D/C so close to high output A/C is that noise can often look like an A/C bleed over even though it is just noise. The Speed signal is a typical hi/low square wave magnetic speed pickup signal. As far as actual RPM? Not...

So I did a little more digging. First I went right to the Generator head and measured the A/C output. I was getting 45-60 V at each of the three poles. It was a sine wave appearance. BUT that tells me that the A/C side is doing what it should. I then went to the D/C side and I got 24-25V DC...

I can check that the RPM sensor is putting out a signal. There is a three position power source select switch with OFF-GEN-SHORE. There are breakers to turn on/off different voltage outputs, and there is a contactor which engages the main load bank by electrically closing a large relay. None...

Your kit was missing gaskets? Which ones?

I have been trying to bring back an Applied Companies Drash unit and am starting to get a little deeper than I like and thought I would reach out and see if you guys have experienced this stuff before. I knew the fuel pump was bad on the Perkins when I got it so I pulled it and had it rebuilt...

Here is the link to the new V2 kit so you can see the differences! https://paradoxbydesign.com/collections/cooling-upgrades/products/cucv-coolant-upgrade-kit

Product NEWS! We have officially released V2 of the CUCV Cooling Upgrade Kit. V2 now includes several manufacturing changes we have been slowing integrating into V1 kits over the last several months so in order to properly maintain both the older build kits and these new ones we added the new...

She will talk about that time for years to come! Good on you!

Hey I resemble that remark!

We are officially back open from our summer shop vacation Monday but I personally just got back this AM so why put off till Monday what I can do now! The Optimizer, GEP and Navistar 6.5 engines are all upgraded from the 6.2ltr. Depending on the vintage and manufacturer you will have any...

They are totally different and NOT compatible.

This is a typical issue with these trucks as they were set-up to have a large load in the back. Most guys on the street never need that much load carrying so they end up with positive camber and a drag race look in back.

Yes I know, I was more speaking to adding a magnetic plug to catch debris and check the level too. Heck a sight window would be even better!