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Look into the Rod Hall suspension set up equipped on GMV HMMWVs. Eastern Surplus has these trucks for sale. Basically set up for Baja as is.

CV joints make kind of a clatter sound when they go out.

Remove the injectors and see what is going on inside.

Agree. In the transfer case, only a stub shaft outboard of the engagement would be turning. If anything I would think that 15 tons on the wheellift is quite a bit but that is not your problem.

Yeah what you have to do is search that database for entries that list the correct registration (hood) number and then interpolate to estimate yours. Unfortunately the database can’t be queried for registration numbers, says they are working on that.

V configured engines don't fit either chassis due to the steering gear being in line with the frame rails.

Power from the transfer case input shaft to the output shaft is all through gears in both ranges. Any "slippage" would be heard as horrible grinding. Check to see that the high/low range shift rail is adjusted properly.

Try here: G503 Serial Number Database

If that were the case, the starter would engage if you turn the key to ON with the engine not running. Sounds like it's time for a reman starter.

So you advocate spending your money with Shenzhen Unishine Optoelectronics Co LTD as opposed to Truck-lite or JW Speaker who's designs they ripped off.

Looks to me like 5 ton combat wheels that have been modified with 6 hole centers. Check the welds carefully before using anything home made.

Now Oshkosh knows what Stewart and Stevenson felt like when they ripped away the FMTV contract.

I do. Subscribed. Mine has a huge inverter and rotary air compressor in it.

It had the large shelter in it that overhangs the rear bumper.

Anything from a junk yard will most likely need a rebuild as well. Automatic transmission overhauls are not for inexperienced mechanics. Suggest you pull yours and shop around for what the rebuilding industry calls “bench jobs”.

Looks like the big 400 amp. Fits HMMWV, MRAPs, maybe JLTV

Sometimes the ammeter was replaced with a voltmeter since the ammeter was phased out early on and the voltmeter remained throughout the truck’s service life. If this was done, one of the ammeter wires was used to feed the voltmeter and the other cut off and taped up. If your mystery wire ends...

Maybe pressure wash the crap out of it and spot prime any bare areas, and top coat with Pro Industrial water based acrylic from Sherwin Williams.

Make sure the wire tag number on the engine compartment side of the light fixture matches the wire number on the headlight bulb.

If I was considering a non permanent repair, I would notch out the crack a little and fill it with JB Weld.