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Ha, yeah, but only when you plug it into the second vehicle - and if a PCB in the "dead" vehicle was protecting that vehicle from a battery wiring mistake, it does nothing to protect your "good" vehicle. If you have nice Hawkers and a relatively expensive set of high-output alternators and...

Measure both sides of the relay coil to narrow down the problem. No power on the orange side and power on the Red side just means the relay isn't actuating. When you turn on the ignition (On, not start), there should be power to the coil of the relay. If the GP controller is trying to turn on...

How about cab roof over hood height? I need an anchor reference to make it somewhat accurate.

That was my thinking too - and since I've seen people use NATO slave ports for non-standard purposes, I wanted to CYA on my own "A". I built it myself, I'll post the schematic, board file (ExpressPCB), and parts list tonight when I get home. It's a pretty simple circuit, a bridge rectifier, an...

Are you doing the standard width cab? How wide are your doors and pillars? How tall is your roofline over the hood line? I'll use the camouflage paint guide 2D drawings to get a head on and side view, and I can do the isotropic view afterwards.

What do you need done in Photoshop?

Get all the info you want straight from the horse's mouth: TB 43-0209 (Army.Mil website) 1 = Black (37030) 2 = Green 383 (34094) 3 = Brown 383 (30051)

AttBatt.com has the cells for $14.39/each ($172.68 for the full dozen).

That sounds better than 2Ga for jumping. [thumbzup] I have some 4/0 clamps (1400Amp) I'm going to build a set of jumpers for - I tried jumping a friend's 5.0 Mustang with a Toyota Pickup and that taught me something... More battery, more alternator, more cable thickness - always a good thing...

The new rectangular part is more common in parts houses now, so yeah - if you absolutely want a sensor that some classic car collector is going to nit-pick over get the old style, or get the new style and change the plug and have the convenience of not having to build your own parts house to get...

That (132-55/14077122) looks like the correct part - I'm guessing that you had a Stant or Motorcraft thermostat in there when they went bad... I have seen anecdotes of the plastic backed thermostats failing open within a week search other forums over the last few days - sounds nearly epidemic.

Okay I see what it is - the sensor you have is the one-pin+one-ring type (old/original style, it's not actually one-pin). It's still a two conductor sensor (which is should be). This sensor type is going out of production in favor of the rectangular sensors, which are more common these days...

With the glow plug controller, you should have a variable resistance temperature sensor on the driver's side that goes to the GP controller. The civilian version of the 6.2 had a GP Inhibit Switch rather than a sensor - my M1009 came with a switch, not a sensor so it was replaced with the...

Some movies where removable paint was used: The Jackal, TAXI (terrible US version)

Have you ever seen "dip your car"?

$5? You can build one of those with an old deep-socket and some webbing...

Caster is done with shimming the leaf spring mount to the axle (rolling the axle forwards or backwards). Camber should be more or less set right from the factory - if it's off, you might have a bent axle tube. The only way I know of to fix that after the ends are welded onto the axle, is to...

The ring will vibrate in its mounting tab - this can be countered by shimming it with teflon to remove the concentric play. It'll also vibrate against the skid, shooting the skid with some bed liner and acoustic dampening spray (Spectrum, Lizard Skin, Coat of Silence, Eastwood Sound Deadener...

Keep in mind that ceramic or mineral fiber can be in direct contact with the exhaust/muffler, while other types of insulation/foam cannot (fire hazard) - I see that your muffler already appears to have a thermal/acoustic blanket on it (at least wrapped around the cylinder of it). If you can put...

The sensor on the driver's side is the GP temperature sensor, the Sensor on the Passenger side is the cold advance switch. Difference between the switch and sensor is about $90 - the sensor is cheaper than the switch. Cold Advance switch controls the IP timing advance and high-idle solenoid...