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On that line of thought, I also don't have a yard or shop, my truck is parked on the street in a fairly nice-ish neighborhood that has businesses which bank on appearance. For less than 1/4 the cost of a "rolling luxury couch" I can buy and restore a CUCV. For the more expensive "super...
When you do your fix, cut open the float, clean it, and put a full cork inside it, then solder it shut (lower temperature than brazing/welding). Next time it develops a crack, the cork is already inside :beer: Should get much longer life out of it.
That's what a picture looks like when you simply attach it to a post - if you are in the attachment manager, you can lick the "insert inline" once you put the picture in the "Attachments" box:
Wherever your cursor was in the editor box is where it'll put the checked picture.
I mostly use the...
To check if it's your account, take a look all the way at the bottom right of this forum page, there's a little status box that tells you what your account can do:
This is a 64kB image I just uploaded through Chrome on my Win-7 Desktop. When you say "new upload system", are you talking about the attachment manger?
I just uploaded this image with the simple insert picture button in the quick reply editor:
For getting the truck back fast, a LoJack and a Cellular GPS tracker is really the way to go IMHO. GPS tracker can send an SMS/email when your truck is started or moved outside of a geofence (a "line in the sand", on an electronic map). Once you confirm the truck is stolen, immediately call...
Check out the wiring diagram in the Technical Manual, then compare that diagram to your truck. Having not seen your truck I can't take anything for granted in giving advice out :burn:
In addition to not making the device obvious you will want to spend some time making the operation of that...
IMHO: block, battery, fuel, oils. In that order as temps get colder.
The cold advance on the IP and fast idle is set to 100F water temp. If you can get your block above that, it will be quieter when it starts (advanced timing is louder).
Much below 32°F/0°C and batteries will not be able to...
Yes, only pulling the IP fuel cutoff power will still allow the GP to run and the starter to crank.
Backfeed happens if you only disconnect the ground to the batteries - the upper 12V battery runs back through the 12V loads the wrong way (destroying things like GP cards, etc...). If you pull...
This is why HMMWV/CUCV with a single pair of 6TL and an expected comms accessory load come with a 100Amps of alternator (single 24V for HMMWV, dual 12V for CUCV). M939 series trucks aren't expected to be run as "radio trucks," so they don't account for any significant accessory loads - with...
Meant to post to this thread but it slipped off the radar...
The PDU is not part of the maintenance function of the PulseTech unit. If you don't need 12V distribution don't hook it up. You should only need the solar panel and the pulse unit. As others have said on this thread already, the...
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?138638-Talking-about-security-in-the-open
Whatever you do, make sure your "kill switch" prevents power to the glow plugs. If you have someone trying to start the truck - every time they turn it off and then back on it'll fire another glow (leading to...
You know with the exception of the M1010 - the CUCV is a remarkably simple vehicle, both mechanically and electrically. You just have to remember that they are 30 years old now and prone to deferred maintenance that'll crop up in the middle of the least ideal timing. Only way to "prevent" this...
Indeed - it'll be hard to do a post-mortem over forum posts.
Did you in any way tamper with the control wiring of the doghead relay during the A/C install?
It does unfortunately sound like you'll need to replace a rather long list of wires and devices in the truck now that some damage has been...
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