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A few questions:
Where is the "ground-tree" grounded to?
How far away from the battery is the new power distribution block fused? (looks like the other side of the engine bay - too far IMHO, should be within 18" of the battery, the point is to protect that entire wire from the battery to the...
To avoid cutting into the factory harness (to retain reversibility), these are what I picked up for the headlight plug and socket:
I just cut these in the middle instead - the plug with the spades in it (black plug) plugs into the factory headlight plugs, and I wire the relays into the middle...
Almost all of the parts have arrived - just waiting on the ceramic extensions.
Auto-Pal HL-109 fixtures ($44 for the pair shipped), OSRAM TruckStar Pro H4 24V ($20 shipped from the UK), and a set of common 24V/10W halogen BA9 bulbs ($14 shipped). Bulbs are installed in the fixtures, and stored...
Hear, hear. I've said it before - it's a hobby not a business, it's supposed to cost money, space, and time. We don't normally expect a return on the expenditure other than our enjoyment [thumbzup]
Welcome to the site from California - Go Bucks! (and maybe all the way this year :beer:)
Yes, start with the plugs, then look at the fuel supply - the pink wire to the IP (Injector Pump) should have +12V at it with the key "on". If you pull the connector for it off with the key "on" you should...
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-22968178-Spare-Wheel-Hoist/dp/B00GU7NTGO/
Just needs a cross-member to bolt to that you would have to weld or bolt in place.
A mechanic friend of mine told me once, and it stuck: "you can always be the first to see an aftermarket part problem, you always have to check for proper fit when you put things together". It's one of the reasons he's a bit more expensive on the labor he charges his customers, but knowing that...
It's been done, and done away with by most manufacturers - what you're doing is a series/parallel switch. They make them COTS.
IMHO, it's more complicated and less reliable to have one of these switches - and as I said, the manufacturers agree for the most part with the advent of reliable gear...
I think if you can get to a hill on a short drive that's enough to get the engine to temperature - if there's any point where you feel you could lug or stall the engine you're nearing or exceeding the available power at that fuel rate, and combustion is likely to be complete (unless you...
I do have to agree with cucvrus - the ends of those teeth are pretty well rounded off. Even if you fixed the engagement now, the teeth are missing the surface that got rounded off already so you're not engaging enough gear for long term reliability.
If you don't have a "soldier b", you can...
I think you need twice more girth - you're not going to be able to recover skyscrapers without a bit more steel. :naner:
While you're at it, you can probably add a few more axles - ha! Color me green :mrgreen: with envy though on your build, it's awesome!!!
I do believe the industry standard minimum to prevent wet stacking in diesels is a load of 30% the nameplate rating (J-code 6.2 factory rating is 165HP). That would mean you need to put a ~50HP load on it - probably not going to happen unless you drive it...
And when someone suggest that...
My friend's parents are British and are always amazed at how large american vehicles are - seems most in Europe are used to small compacts and hot-hatches... A full-sized diesel Blazer is probably like an elephant on the road there :beer:
Check belt adjustment first.
Bought a bunch of stuff...
If I remember my OSHA pamphlets correctly, you can die from falling at the height of the top of your head... For most of us, that's 6 feet or a few fingers less.
Pays to have a work platform or ladder when doing elevated work. And with the larger trucks, as the OP has indicated, the height is...