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Truck-lites are not tinted, they have a black circuit board that the reflectors show. Truck-lites are currently one of two common field replacements for 7" round and 7"x6" rectangle headlights - the other being J.W. Speaker. New military vehicles are also being shipped with these two brands...

http://asc.army.mil/web/portfolio-item/cs-css-advanced-medium-mobile-power-source-ammps/

AGM = Abpsorbed Glass Mat It's a non-spillable lead acid, they put only enough electrolyte in there to saturate a paste, there's no free flowing fluid. As for Optimas, I'm not a fan anymore. They changed their production a few years back and the quality bottomed out. I've had several fail open...

German m1008, I think a good 200mm Cibie fixture would do you some good if you're looking for improvement: Clearly has the "E2" marking right in the center of the glass. Takes an H4 bulb so replacements are cheap - the glass is admittedly as expensive per fixture as some of the cheaper LED...

Here's a link to your videos... Also if you copy the URL for the video you shoot straight into SS like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnEEmiO1xZQ The video will show up auto-magically like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rnEEmiO1xZQ

Any reason you don't want to run 200mm H4 Cibie's? I have a set on my Toyota I'm moving over to my M1009 - they are the best fixtures I've ever had.

The J.W. Speakers are a precision optics projection type. The top row of the light is road-edge, then dipped beam, then road edge. The bottom row is high beam pattern then the little dot between the two high-beams is the city light, then the other high beam pattern. Since it's all in one...

There are ECE compliant LED headlamps (Truck-Lite and J.W.Speaker). These are a drop-in H6054 type fixture. I just read through the APK requirements and I don't find anything that would disallow the LED headlamps as long as they are mounted and aimed properly.

The install instructions were not mine - they were from member richingalveston, just from a quick look he's been online as recently as today so shoot him a PM. If he can scan them and post them as a PDF to that thread, it'll take the full resolution BTW, and we'll all get the benefit that way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KeaMsvai0FA

Your truck may have just had all three of those mounts installed originally depending on what use the truck had in service. I found this thread where there are three antenna mounts on the truck similar to yours. It shows the guards in addition to the mount itself, perhaps as part of the MSE...

This, or... This. I personally prefer this method, especially if you're adding an antenna that may get hit by things, or is heavy. Grabbing two pieces of sheet steel with a spacer and load plate on the inside squeezing the spacer together in the body panel space, will give it some structure...

Old thread... (7 years stale?) It's series parallel 2x2, you can tell with the label on the top of the batteries, and the embossed polarities. It also looks like the factory 27SI alternator on the passenger side, my guess is the other is also stock. Those are 100Amps each (series), so...

Welcome from California [thumbzup]

About sound - it can be transmitted through air and/or conducted through structure. Airborne noise can either be absorbed (eaten) or diffused (spread around), conducted noise must be isolated. Thinking about getting rid of noise with "just one product", is probably going to leave you upset at...

Is there a way to put the table completely out of the way?

Of course make sure that neutral stays bonded to ground somewhere in your system when the load is switched over to the generator. You shouldn't need to worry about multiple ground rods creating a loop, but you definitely need to worry about having ONLY one neutral to ground bond for your system.

The tacos were good so you can't have them back (I'm not sure you'd want them at this point [thumbzup]). Yes that is partially the type of "confusion" I would have expected. As for the charge stabilizing, you are also not beating it with variable loads like winch and inverter use, or leaving...

So today had a hiccup, light turned green, put foot on accelerator, engine rev'd, but no movement. I found that the shift selector has a wear spot between D and N, and apparently it can slip into it... Looks like I need to rent that steering wheel puller again. It's been running like a champ...

Nope, it's still up there (just no link here as it's against the :rules:). Auction completed last time with no bids... (no surprise here).