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Here's my thinking: If you have power to the shut-off solenoid, fuel to the IP, but none to the injectors, either you have an air leak or your IP is has a problem - of course GP may have also run the fuel system dry which would appear like an air leak.
Priming the IP and lines out to the...
Should be able to loosen the injector lines and purge them. Might just have air in there. Give your starter 10 second cranks, and 30 second breaks. When you get flow, tighten them back up and try again.
Diagnostic terms:
Won't crank - turning key does not cause starter motor to turn the engine
Cranks but won't start - tuning key causes engine to spin, but not to turn over
Wait light coming on? It still has glow plugs - do those work?
Yeah, the Maxwells aren't cheap - but they function all the way down to -40C, can be totally discharged and then recharged and work with essentially full capacity, can be trickle charged all day long (constant voltage) without boiling over. If you have the NATO plug and the starter on the...
Not quite - but close. It still needs the 24V if you want 24V, but it only needs 20A(max) to charge in 15 minutes (longer if lower current, but you can also top it off with small solar cells continuously :) ), so a small boost voltage regulator can step up from 12V-to-24V when the ignition is...
Interestingly the CUCV is definitely a case where you can get away with installing one of Maxwell's Ultracapacitor starter packs - either on the stock 24V or modified 12V trucks (still use 24V starter...). Both 900 and 1100CCA models are available.
Just realize that this is only as much of a deterent as a closed window or a locked door - that chain is readily cut with standard bolt cutters, which happen to work as well as a rock at opening windows...
First, thank you for your service. :)
The configuration I have:
You'll see, it hasn't been removed (didn't have a reason to yet - didn't want to try and find a place to store it if I yanked it). I was mistaken about the shock mounts. Here are the pictures, the big picture:
Close up of...
I do have the field telephone switchboard version of the shelter - came with the full desk and racks at the cab-end of the box. I do not need them, yours if you want it ("free to a good home," have to get it to you though). Several 19" or 21" racks, on shock mounts (IIRC) and swing-outs to...
Like it - keep the details and pictures coming, several of us are doing something like this now with an S-250. Nice to compare notes and ideas... [thumbzup]
I imagine the turbo helped with the altitude. OP is in CO. I'd turbo any diesel that sees over 2000'. Diesel's are already a lean burn type of engine (as opposed to a stoichiometric engine like gassers, where O2 sensors help the ECU tune the air fuel mix right on the edge of rich burning)...
With the calculator assuming no-lockup, that works out to about 2000RPM at 65MPH with 33" tires. Pretty good. If you can get the lockup back that should drop about 100RPM to about 1900.
They may have just cut the wire or unplugged the wire to the transmission. IIRC, the lockup solenoid has a...
Don't need to take a course at MIT to read lecture notes most of the time: http://ocw.mit.edu/courses/mechanical-engineering/2-611-marine-power-and-propulsion-fall-2006/lecture-notes/16diesel_contd.pdf
If you're planning on running in the 2-3K RPM range, get a turbo just to make sure you're not...
I'll be honest, I don't see the MPG changing more than 1MPG on long-term average with only an exhaust mod. If your 86 really has 4.56 finals then your engine would have to be spinning 3190 RPM at 65MPH. The max efficiency zone for the 6.2L is 1600-1800 RPM, above 2000RPM the efficiency drops...
Note that not only to you have to get a meter for the correct voltage-scale (determined by the "type" of thermocouple), but you also have to match the wire from the probe to the meter with the same type. Thermocouples work by creating a voltage at the junction of two dissimilar metals, the...
Please, just Tim. :beer:
As far as I have been able to read from the publically provided documentation (and the additional stuff you provided) there is no user-configurable settings on the N3211 regulator. Again as far as I can read, it will output 28.8V during operation. what I've been...