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This is a repository for the information I'll be uploading on splitting the single circuit brakes and modifying the air system.

The super secret "history eraser" switch is a ground lift night switch. It lives on the firewall side behind the passenger side battery.

Good news. I went out and removed the torus cover and got the engine turning. Not a full revolution because i havnt pulled plugs, but moved it back and forth 1/2" or so😁 compressor also free'd up and rocked. Forgot to tug on the generator. When i get back its spark plug and atf time.

" You know you could use the brake master cylinders used in the M105 trailers. " Does anyone have a casting or part number for the master cylinder for the M105? It would be handy to know the bore and effective stroke for sizing the Masters for the split system. Thanks in advance. ** edit**...

I found this hiding in the interwebs. I didnt see it in the early deuce TM's so if it isn't already there maybe we could add it.

Ill look into the M105 units. Thanks thats a great tip. I was thinking of updating to modern S-cam stuff for cost and availabillity. I can buy service chambers in just about any size for under $20 day or night. I have no experience with the M105's. How far are they down the obsolete list? What...

[thumbzup] Yes Sir!

You bet, A relay valve is part of the puzzle. There will be more air volume required so an extra or upsized dry air tank. This may require a different pulley for the compressor to reduce air up time to comply with regs. It will also make hauling a conventional s cam air brake trailer a lot...

Yes the 15307 is a 1 1/2" bore. I know they will require more volume. My question was about the change in dynamic braking effect. Ive read that the 1 3/8 were harder to modulate than the 1 1/4. But i have no first hand experience so i figured id ask the experts. I want to split the system...

Ok so in looking for wheel cylinders i came across these. The 15306 is the 1 3/8" bore from the parts list. The 15307 is a 1 1/2" bore unit from the big book of raybestos. Externally it apprears identical. The only difference is the pushrod length looks like the 15307 shipped with ones that are...

My truck has an angle iron rectangular frame welded to the bumper in the same location as the 207dent pic

Thats awesome thanks for the education! The only complete M207 van ive seen in the wild was on 32nd ave in Surrey about 10 years ago. It's too bad the van body is gone. It'd be cool to know if it was Dr. Pain's fang snapper road show. The engine seems pretty stuck, as does the compressor. That...

Ok switch found. It is in a strange place... It looks similar to the other switches that were added at some point, light duty with small wires. Either a coil disconnect or heater motor is my guess at this point. Ill dig more when its less drippy.

It must be top secret..i cant see it in my pics..now i have to go look🙃

Heres a clear pic of the drivers windshield frame.

It doesnt look like Teddy is having a fun ride tho...he can sing the high harmonies to " on the road again" when its time.🤣

Well, ill drip dry and try and sort out these pics. The prize goes to Mr.Powboy...there is indeed a bell above the driver seat. Well done 007..does that lock it in as an M207?

Ok thanks so much thats great info! The fender mounted heater is on the front clip off my M135, the under dash unit is in the new 211. My plan is to man up and go and mess with it a bit today finally, rain or shine. More pics coming🫡

Well i started in the wind, sideways rain and power outage yesterday..and reaped the fruits of patience/lazyness today. Success! Frame number revealed.

Got some pics and supplies today. Blew through the honeydo list so tomorrow is clear for automotive archaeology. One of the first things i noticed is that the new 211ish has an in cab under dash personell heater. My 135 has it on the top of the drivers inner fender. Any clues when that changed...