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These are good for having bad o-rings in the manual tank transfer switch and cracked fuel lines that suck air. After you've deemed the fuel is OK or replaced it, check that the fuel filter isn't full of gunk, attempt to prime it with the manual primer or slightly pressurize one of the fuel tanks...
There is vent hole in the glad hand cover on the right front gladhand with a spring loaded vent cap on the outside similar to the vents on your diffs., if the vent is plugged your brakes will start to drag. This vent is suppose to be open allowing air to escape.
Double check that the vent on the front right glad hand (pass. side) is not plugged.Thought my spring brakes were sticking until I found the vent hole in the right glad hand plugged solid. There should not be a valve on this side either. This would be the easiest to do before you check the quick...
That's all you need to do as long as it is a single wire self energizing alternator, just disco your batteries before working on the alternator to avoid shorting anything or you out.
I used 2 group 34 batteries with 955 CCA each and a couple of cheap battery hold-downs. Cover with these batteries will close with no issue, had to shorten hold-down bolts. I was going to go the Optima route; however the store talked me out of them since they had been getting a lot of come-backs...
Before I bought my M1078 LMTV, I downloaded all the TM's and parts manuals on a flash drive and reviewed them. They do ride and handle well and only go about 50 mph with stock gearing. Make sure your front planitary drives are full otherwise you will burn them up. They have 4 of the full size...
There are 2 O-rings that measure 3/8 x 1/2 x 1/16 wide towards the end of the primer plunger after you remove it.
I had just replaced mine that were sucking air along with the supply hose from the fuel filter to the IP that was also leaking.
The truck would surge up and down while it was at an...
Did you look at this thread for lowering a M1101 / 1102 ?
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?134805-Another-way-to-lower-an-M1101-M1102&highlight=lowering
I say use the LED's like Revovery4X4 said, they're good for 10-30 volts and all you will need is to make a 12 pin military to 7 pin round RV adapter and you can use it on civy or MV vehicles. No messing with relays or resistors
Unless you really want a radio in your truck, the complete radio mounts are something good to bang your elbow on and make it a pain every time you want to gain access under your seat. I've already removed several out of trucks I bought.
Ditto on the Delco alternator, this is what I did nearly 3 years ago on my M925A2 and was able to use the same length serpentine belt by changing the length of the lower bracket.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?85317-M925A2-Delco-Style-Alternator&highlight=m925a2+delco
Check it with a digital VOM and see what your readings are. Load test and check each battery individually while still in the truck, no need to yank them out unless 1 is bad.
I've never seen the M939A1's with the NHC-250 Cummins come with a turbo unless someone added one. They must have been doing alot of "copy and paste" and missed that in their listing.
If they are going to start paying for obvious listing errors, I'll have to watch closer.
Would a center exit or angled exhaust manifold like the one's below help your exhaust routing any better? I've also seen factory 4BT manifolds with the turbo at a angle.
http://www.steedspeed.com/cummins_4bt_turbo_header
The TM states "refill power steering pump reservoir with OE/HDO-10 specified for the ambient temperature". I use automatic trans fluid or hydraulic fluid that's about 10W.
TM 9-2320-365-10 pages 738 & 739 (F. 5 Lubrication Key) lists the fluids and capacities for the M-1078 /1079 if you feel...
I replaced all the selector valve lines on my XM-818 several years back and never had any more issues. See post #4 on the thread below:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?76086-5-ton-fuel-tank-selector-valve-cleaning-rebuild