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Awesome thread, wish this was around when I started my conversion. I'll do up something similar and post it because I used different parts since I got an early low first gear model trans. I think the shifter on the NV is 3 inches further back than on the sm465, is that about where your shifter...

Hmm not sure, it all seems to check out. Try calling torque king or one of the shops you got your parts from, maybe they have an idea or can tell you if it's normal.

" synthetic gl4 75w85 " is not specific enough for these transmissions. They require more than just a GL4 spec oil due to the carbon synchros. What exact oil are you using? Attached a file that is specifically about eliminating a rattle from a failed dual mass flywheel but its interesting to...

Can the NP208 handle being flat towed in neutral? The oil pump is on the output shaft so I would think it's possible. I know the TM gives guidance for flat towing but with proper lubrication it should be possible to tow at highway speeds as long as you want without issue...

Clever! Hope this works well, I might do the same.

Here you are: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/cucv-throttle-vacuum-valve-adjustment.50568/

Pretty sure i've seen someone make one from a block of wood.. I'll look around

300 ohms sounds about right. I want to say I made up a 180 ohm resistor to get my volt gauge working correctly after a 12 volt conversion. If anyone has a good gauge handy they could pull the resistor off and measure it. Make sure to measure it with just the resistor and not still connected to...

I just installed a rebuilt transmission in a truck that was shifting kind funny, but mostly leaking a ton of atf. It would downshift when you floor it but then immediately upshift back in to 3rd. When I went to get a new modulator for it the auto parts stores showed a unit with a red stripe in...

Looking forward to running out there for a day or maybe two if I can manage. Would like to camp but with two dogs its a pain around large groups, so we'll just make the 1.5 hr drive and head back at night.

No way its 22 QTS for an overhaul. Probably a typo and should be 12.

Having just done this, it was at least 12 quarts. I know for a fact I went through four gallons between transfer case and transmission, put 5 quarts in the tcase, and still had to add a few quarts on top for the trans.

I think that 24v to 12v converter setup thatveas linked earlier might be the way to go if you want to run a lot of 24v accessories. Keeps the load equal across the batteries at all times and should the converter fail you can easily wire the truck back how it was to get 12v to the buss bar.

Curious to hear the responses, I've never had good luck using the paste on my air compressor lines at home...

I think he's planning on running two seorrate systems. One 12v battery for the truck stuff and two 12v batteries wired for 24v for accessories. The singular 12v battery for the truck won't be involved in the 24v system like it is from the factory

Been looking in to this a bit and it seems a few people do get vibrations. I know one guy even narrowed it down to the gear vendors device input by removing his rear drive shaft and confirming it still happens when driving around in front wheel drive. Something to consider trying.

Spent last week rebuilding a transmission then the last few days swapping it with the leaky one in my m1028. Dropped the leaky trans to find one of the mounting flanges on the bellhousing was shattered, so I was glad I was installing a second trans instead of banking on rebuilding that one...

Never said mine were wired in series, just that it would be possible to do it. Much like rubbing a bunch of 12v glow plugs off a 24v system via a huge resistor. Possible but not without its shortcomings.

I put dual electric fans on my truck, you could do the same and wire them in series for 24 volts. The reason I did this was so incoukd ensure all tubes in the radiator had a fan pulling air across them. Our radiators are quire tall so instead of one huge fan I got two smaller ones. They work...

Guess I'm coming from the current state of affairs in the army where they mandate we drain the tanks every time we park it, so every damn time we start it off it goes a'blarin! If we were permitted to leave the tanks full then it would be much less of an issue.