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More box work.
I used Great Stuff cracks and gaps to fill in the perimeter where the walls and ceiling meet, didn't need much, a little goes a long way. Used the same product as an adhesive for the last section of ceiling insulation and board.
While the can was open, can't imagine trying...
I don't know if it works or not. I just wasn't ready to commit on it's removal, rent is affordable.
The fuel supply lines were in bad shape and I have not replaced them nor did I replace the T in the main fuel line that feeds the pump.
The only part of the system that I've tested is the pump...
Worked some more on insulating the box. A picture in post 22 shows polystyrene (pink) in the wall, it's what HD had when I went, so I put it up. Bad idea, turns out the working temp of polystyrene is only 165 F, compared to operating temp of polyisocyanurate (pictured in the roof) is 270F.
I...
About starters for the 6.2, I was only aware that they came in 2 styles, direct drive and gear reduction. Warthog shows them here. Does yours look like either?
Can't help with the up hill acceleration comparison, the only hill around is a landfill and I'm not willing to speed up that.
CDO (arranged alphabetically) or not, wirenuts are probably not the right tool for the job :razz:. I've found some stuff like that as well.
I look forward to seeing your work sir, and I completely understand that last part, mine was a lawn ornament for a good part of a year, I'm thankful for...
The good thing is that's an optional step, most folks just tape the ends up and tuck away I believe.
But if you go for it, I will say this: it's a fun project, if done correctly should give you peace of mind, great way to learn the location of engine compartment electrical connections and it...
Working on the box
I don't have big plans to build out the rear box just yet, I'm leaning towards keeping an empty space where I can add and remove depending on the activity, again undecided.
However, there was some water intrusion that I needed to find the source of and stop, while I was...
That inner fender looks very similar to OEM, a lot more than what I used. Good find!
If you have the need and want the batt. tray supports off of mine send me PM, they are in good shape and I'd be happy to donate them to your project.
Have you checked the nuts that hold the steering column to the dash image bellow from TM-34 and IIRC there are a couple more in the engine bay.
And here's an image from the TM-20 with details of the horn mechanism.
Dash
The pirate themed dash left from the PO was one of the first things to go, wrenches before wenches.
A coworker donated a dash from a square body he was scrapping, it needed some love, but can't beat the price. I cut the vinyl back along the edges of the cracks until it was flush...
Looking good, solid progress. The valve certainly is beefy, could you share a link?
Still looking for the inner fender? With massaging the ones from LMC work, another option would be Goodmark, I've read good reviews but never used them myself.
Which return lines are you going with?
Keep up...
What 20 amp fuse did you tap into? That may explain the GP system malfunction, have you removed the gp card and checked operation?
Picture is from this thread: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?132309-CUCV-Fuse-Box-Layout
Driving it a little bit.
There is a long to do list, doubt it will ever end, but I have been enjoying driving her.
Went boating (12' kayak), hit some local MTB trails with my brother and took a picture next to an M8xx series tractor.
Not necessarily a bad thing, have you checked out the threads on bypassing them?
Here's one: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?134320-A-muddy-resistor-bypass-overkill-is-a-GOOD-thing
DH relay, a must IMHO. What's your plan with the alts? Sticking with a 12/24v system?
Second...
Bump stops
I chose to limit the front spring from going into negative arc using Aeon springs by Timbren, link. Making my own extensions kept the price down, made them out of 0.25" wall 2" DOM pipe with 0.25" plate for the ends, the ends have nuts welded inside in order to bolt the spring to...