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And I think I have a valve assembly off a skid of an 802 (think its the same as the tank drain on the 803, I will reconsult the TMs)

Ive got some grey new style expansion, PM me your address.

I think the O ring groove is key to sealing, which is why I would recommend the original 'ultimate well nut' upgrade. With the O ring in the groove, the sealing gasket is much more prone to properly sealing (where the ungrooved item, the gasket can distort for the reasons mentioned above. Plus...

So you are looking for the brass drain, or the well nut? There are a number of low end copies of the 'ultimate well nut' that are on the market, that should be considered poor replacements. As 2Pb calls out, the right one has an O ring groove in the rear face of the bung assembly, and includes a...

If your VR is crapped out, now is the time to get one better than stock: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/mep-802a-mep-803a-ac-voltage-regulator.196939/ I think I have the HZ and PRC, not sure on the transducer.

There should be (4) corner screws that you remove, for the cover to pop off.

One flywheel remains, and Powerplant transfer box sold. Listing updated. Other items available upon request, just ask and I will see if I have what you need.

If this were me? I would pull the temp switch like mentioned above, and completely drain the cooling system and flush with distilled water a couple of times. At the same time, I would put in a new thermostat (its real handy to refill the cooling system the majority of the way, through the...

Well if the top hose is hot, and the lower hose significantly cooler... I would stay the T stat is at least functioning (possibly not at its peak, but lets put that aside for right now). If you are getting the fault light at varying temperature levels, thats due to this puppy...

You have to put the parenthesis after the separated by a space (which is annoying, but the two characters together is auto changed to an emoji). 8) 8 )

Probably because they are 8s, and its changing it over to glasses.

Any auto parts store should carrying deoxidizing spray/ electronic contact cleaner. CRC, Permatex, Berryman, etc... all available at an O Reillys. I have just had excellent success with the Deoxit stuff (which Ive only found in stock locally ever at a Guitar Center, of all places). Glad to...

If everything appears in order (no motor chugging, no gauges reading way off from where they should be, etc) I would suspect you need to get a can of a good deoxidizing spray (I like Deoxit D5) and you need to hit all the switches, contacts, etc in the machine. It requires taking the roof panel...

Are you saying its a bad idea to clamp both + and - jumper ends to the chassis? Won't the electricity find its way to the starter eventually? :ROFLMAO:

I've got two sets of basically complete front box wire harnesses available.

Are you still looking for one?

I have some available, PM me directly.

Use a heavy set of jumper cables. Drive the rod, and hook up one side of the cables to the rod, and the same color (other side) to the grounding lug of the machine. Its better than nothing at all, and affords you versatility.

You will have one unused wire on the switch. Its a multi-tap, can be configured as a NO or a NC switch depending on how its connected. No issue there. On cut wires, look at the actual wire sheathing, there should be number info printed on it every couple of inches. That's your key to tracking...