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I am sure they did... bet that lack of foresight to spend some $ before the storm tastes pretty bad right now.

Same up here, low teens without wind chill

That E stop gets everyone at some point. If you find an MEP owner that says otherwise, they are lying.

I have withdrawn my recommendation of this particular shop, not sure they are even in business any more. Had 3 rebuilt and put on the shelf, two tested bad still when I pulled them down to use them. Not happy. I do not recommend anyone use Dave's Starter & Alternator out of Enfield, NH. They...

If you have water in a contact system, and it freezes... you have a physical barrier that disappears when it becomes a conductive liquid again. Sounds like further digging into the K1 with contact cleaner and a fine eye might be in your future. And see if there is any visible sign of water...

Or even a wonky ground, you aren't going to hear pumps cutting in and out, from the roar of the engine/genhead running.

If you have the correct fuel pumps, there are caps you can remove off the bottom with a twist, and there should be 'basket' strainer filters inside of each pump that can get gummed up and restrict flow. Thats what I meant, for clarification.

I wouldn't splice those lines. I would determine the length, gauge, and termination size, and have new ones made up complete (or sourced used from a parts machine if thats preference). Not the spot I would personally want a 'fix' to fail.

Clicking does not equal pumping. It should... but it doesn't always. Have you removed the particle filters and caps and cleaned them? According to Pegasus racing, that pump has "Maximum fuel delivery 33 gallons per hour at free flow", so assume about a half gallon per minute max flow. Sounds...

The Airtex pump is better than the square Facet by far... but I have still experienced enough failures in it that I expect issues going forward with all of them. I would remove the hard line to the fuel filter, and have a clear line go back to an external tank and watch to see if it experiences...

The arrow is pointing to a particulate filter. It can be backflushed and reused.

You probably won't like the price, but they are available: https://greenmountaingenerators.com/product/mep802a-mep803a-panel-toggle-switch-8906k4519/

What was the issue

That bracket has been bent up, which is the most likely cause of the flap going missing. The two tangs on the cover side, should be pretty much level with the mounting flange with the (2) hex screws.

Available

Two pair left

Getting warmer... I think you are going to end up pulling the cover over the gauges and cleaning the AC contactor box, which resides behind the wall with the S8 switch. That box, when voltage is applied, is what transfers power down to the lugs. Its known to get hung up by corrosion.

The reset is on the side of the fault panel, flip the gauge panel down and look at the visible side of the fault panel, should be towards the bottom.

The PRC gauge should be registering zero if power is not leaving the machine. Your machine IS generating power though, so breathe easy there. The trick is to now get it out of the machine. When you engage the circuit interrupt switch on the gauge panel, does the green bulb light up?

What setting do you have the voltage/phase selection switch set to behind the gauge panel? And does your hertz gauge register? How about the voltage gauge... showing any voltage? Where is your AM/VM switch set on the gauge panel? The convenience outlet has a resettable breaker on it as well...