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Do yourself a big favor and download the FREE TM's. The troubleshooting procedures are there. Do some reading on the links that have been provided to you in this thread. Good luck! http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?77609-TM-s-for-the-CUCV

I don't know that I'd be lazy at $5 a foot. :)

Never thought about purchasing a different nozzle, doing that may have saved me drilling the extra hole. You might be on to something here, buy the adjustable nozzle and keep us informed on your progress, with photos of course!

If you can, drill your hole for the nozzle from under the dash, straight up. This way the hole is about as close as you can get to the firewall. If you have a cab heater you may not be able to do it this way. Come back about 3/8ths to 1/2 inch from the firewall so you have room to install the...

I checked "I clear the steering wheel", however to be perfectly honest, I should state "barely".

From post #3: Move it as far forward as you can in the cowl. IIRC, the directions that came with my kit indicated 4" from the windshield frame, which unfortunately is too close.

Go to the local library if you don't have a decent way to view the TM's. Sometimes, for a small amount of pocket change, you can also print the pages you need to study. If they don't feature the ability to print, take notes on the information.

Manuals are free to download from this forum. I will echo the others that suggested downloading manuals. These machines produce voltage and current that will kill you.

Now when you go to put it back on, obviously wire brush or emery cloth all the rust off. Apply Never-Seize to the shaft and threads and install. It will come out a lot easier next time.

Copy the file to a disk and take it to a print store...they can blow it up, print it and even laminate for your viewing pleasure.

Regular automotive or Mil-Spec wire. Here is a source if you want to keep it original: http://eriksmilitarysurplus.com/prwimse.html Use regular butt splices and some heat shrink tubing...you'll be golden.

Nice write-up, thanks for another good project idea.

I sure can buy a lot of standard incandescent headlights for $200. Heck, the cool factor isn't even worth the $400 a pair price tag . In the 8 years I've been playing with Deuces, I've only replaced 1 headlight. Guess I'm just cheap.

This is the same coolant level both of my Deuces sit at...just barely visible in the bottom of the filler neck.

This may help you with your M715.

Download the Operator's Manual and the Lube Order...that should steer you in the right direction.

Your electrician didn't see the terminals marked L1, L2, L3 and L0? Shouldn't be difficult at all for an electrician.

Here's my mouse control technician:

Important modifications? Remote brake fluid reservoir and front bumper step. Important and safety oriented.

And the OP hasn't logged on for a year.