Search results

That just ain't right.

Sweeeet!

I'm not sure who it belongs to...It's not a CONG vehicle, they don't have A2's or 800 Series in the inventory any longer.

C & C Equip Window Replacement I removed the glass from the old frame as I had a new windshield glass, blasted the frame and noticed lots of various sized pinholes in the metal. I was just going to replace the glass until I discovered that. Bit the bullet and bought a new windshield from C & C...

I don't recall them being any other color than red and yellow at that time, and I served from the mid to late 70's.

Happyland: What cable did you break with your switch, the positive or negative?

70Deuce (a Club Member) used something like this to do his remote vent project: They are push in connectors for plastic/vinyl tubing. They come in straights, tees, and elbows.

These Folks have a large selection of disconnect switches: http://www.flamingriver.com/batterydisconnect

He may have, he didn't logoff until 10:23.

:ditto: Restore it and make it your "Hamshack".

In Germany we chained up the fronts and the outer wheels on the rear axle, it worked OK. A standby truck w/winch is nice.

Shell Rotella or Chevron Delo, whatever is cheapest at the time. Oh, I add some Lucas on all my lubricating fluid changes.

Obviously a military vehicle in that era would have been OD Green with the white stars. I would think the passenger side front bumper would read: 339 TC (DS). The driver's side would read: Whatever Platoon the vehicle was assigned to. This would be just the opposite on the rear bumperettes: Left...

Did you verify the in-tank pump is running, (visually, audibly) or just turn the switch on?

A large-tipped screwdriver seems to work well, just pry it out on the corners.

I just went out to the shop and measured the resistance between one terminal and ground and the other and ground. I got 7 Ohms on one and 14 ohms on the other. When you do the calculation, like I did above, it comes out to 110W and 55W respectively. However, I have not removed the lamp from the...

Do you have an Ohm Meter? If so, check one connection to ground, then check the other connection to ground. If the Ohm reading is the same for both filaments, then both need to be on for "high beam". If you get about 14 ohms, that's the low beam (55W). If you get 7 ohms, that's the high beam...

Welcome back Doc and thank you for your service!

No, there are 2 separate filaments inside the lamp, one connection is low beam and the other connection is high beam, make sure you have a good ground on the mounting stud.