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Thats not how GVCW is figured. Also DOT will not care how much more your trucks manufactures GVWR or the tires rating are over their bridge laws, or permitted limits.

Also are you sure your truck is an A2? What engine, truck year of manufacture, does it have CTIS? Give us an overall picture of the truck taken from the front/drivers corner and we should be able to verify.

There should be no exhaust/vent lines up there. Check the size of that tube with a wrench, is it half inch, also it appears to be black? If it’s black and half inch it’s probably goes to the top of the brake QR valve, which is where the other two lines you see in your picture go. The brake QR...

I would guess that the shackle is in the correct orientation. Appears that it would bind during lifting if flipped the other way.

Been years since I’ve dealt with this stuff but thats probably a state or overweight permit thing. Used to work building heavy haul trailers back in the day, IIRC they were almost all 60”, but they were permit loads, empty, no matter how far you broke them down. We did build some small step deck...

Scary, hope you’re not hurt! Vent those battery boxes and keep your eyes and mouth closed when connecting those cables[emoji6]

DOT would likely start with their standard bridge formula. IIRC Fed max is 20k front, 34k total for rear tandems, so assume 54k MAX for your truck alone. Most states have variances/limits for certain instances including tire or wheel width, so you may be limited to less on your single tires.

IIRC, someone on here did two, mid and rear, but a third jake would not clear on the hood on front of the engine.

Thanks Valor, I spent way too much time trying to remember that thread! Also, for the OP I stand by my belief that this is the wrong time of year to do this unless you are having issues, or “need” to get a block heater installed ASAP...

Another question is will your tires run against the run-flat while the CTIS is in the lower pressure settings? Interesting on the bead-locks in the African tires, I think they are the same that I am using, no drilling required…

I would think temperature’s not the real issue, mainly needs to be oil resistant, any good fuel or emissions hose should do, silicone being ideal but expensive.

The “water resistant” vales should do a good job of keeping water from entering thought itself, if kept clean. My belief is that most water intrusion when fording is from your warm/hot components, quenched by the colder water, creating a slight vacuum and wanting to pull water in past the seals...

Original tires on a 1991 A2 “should” have bead-locks but not run-flats…

Any chance they are just using that pump as a scavenge pump to move fluid up from a low point in the trans or reduction unit to where one of the other pumps can pick it up? Sorry, I know nothing about these transmissions other than what you’re showing us… Happy new year and hope you’re feeling...

It would only see crankcase gas when fording. I would probably use a 2 position solenoid vale and pull from the top of the motor, not the slobber tube to cut down on the vapor. I would also put the pressure relief down stream of the rear axle to hopefully cut down on how much crap makes it to it.

Sorry, that’s pre filter on the m939 series, I just realized you’re probably working on an older truck that wont have these. Do not plumb it in after the air filter as you will be pulling positive pressure on your vents. I used DOT nylon brake tube, I’ll have to look when I get a chance but...

You might check with Roughstuff Specialties, they may be interested in developing some brackets as there could be a decent market if a common disc/caliper combo is readily available. I have no affiliation with them, other than have been buying their parts for years. Great prices for over the top...

I teed mine together and connected into one of the spare ports in the back side of the engine air intake before the air cleaner.

@rustystud ?

Yes, drop to your two best for now, keep the third runner up charged and in the box for when one of those two give up the ghost. I can’t think of a practical way to run three 12v batteries in a straight 24v system?